SubyPAL

WRC gold rims DIY

2010-01-12T17:49:00.011-05:00

Before WRC gold rim paint

After WRC gold rim paint

Painting stock rims of the Subaru Impreza WRX or STi is almost like joining a cult. Subaru owners that are hardcore fans of WRC will more than likely choose Grimmspeed BBS gold replicolor over other colors. The Grimmspeed BBS gold replicolor over a dark based primer produces a color that is identical to the gold powder coat used on WRC rims. Powder coating isn't always possible, but is better than paint as it will resist the elements much better. However if you still want that custom paint on your stock rims, it's best to follow these procedures.

Materials
Above from left to right

3 cans of Grimmspeed BBS Gold
1 can of Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating "Clear"
2 cans of Bright Touch General Purpose Primer

Preparation
Start by removing debris and impurities from the wheel by using a media blaster. Sure sand paper works, but you will never get all the cracks and crevices like you will with a media blaster. I chose to use sand, because I live in Florida and sand is everywhere. If you want to use the local sand you will need to sift out the larger aggregate by using a screen. Any screen will work, you just need to get the chunks of crap out of your media. Once you have it filtered, you can start sandblasting. Sandblasting is dirty, so make sure you do this outside away from anything you don't want sand to get into. I wore a welding mask with the shade flipped up so I could look through the clear window and see everything with out getting sand all in my face. I also wore a hooded sweatshirt with the hood tucked into the mask to help keep it from getting down the back of my shirt and in my hair. Gloves are also suggested, otherwise you may sandblast your fingers raw from debris bouncing off the surface. Start sandblasting the corners and crevices first, and make sure you get all the tar and debris off the wheel. Then move on to the flat surface, making sure you have as close to an even blast as possible. When you think your done, use an air blast to clean the rim and inspect your work. If it looks good, wash the rim down with soap water to remove all the dust from sandblasting. It's very important you clean the wheel! After the wheel is clean, let it sit out and dry completely. Any water on the wheel will not let the primer bond with the bare metal. If you don't plan on changing tires or removing tires, it's a good idea to use index cards wedged in between the tire and rim to prevent over spray. I'm replacing my tires, but I used them anyway. See picture below for example of index cards.

Primer
When using primer, to get the WRC gold color I chose to go with a dark based primer. If you want a lighter shade of your selected color, choose the lighter shade primer. It might only make a very small difference, but the difference is there. Start out by spraying a very light tack coat on the wheel. A consistent 50% coverage is good for a tack coat (see picture below). You should still be able to see your wheel surface after completing a tack coat. Let the tack coat setup for 15 minutes, and then spray another coat similar to the tack coat, but slightly heavier. This will keep the primer from puddling up in the corners of the wheels. After your second coat has setup for 15 minutes, move on to the third and final thick coat. You should completely cover the rim with primer, and no wheel surface should be showing through. Let the three coats of primer set for at least an hour. It should be dry to touch before proceeding on to the actual painting process.
Note: Be careful not to over spray and puddle the primer. If it puddles, be prepared for those areas to look like crap or you will have to start over. To start over, let the primer dry and then sand blast the areas that puddled. Repeat steps of primer!

Painting
When painting your wheels, it's a good idea to follow the two and two process. Two tack coats, two heavy coats. This will give your rim the solid paint coverage you are looking to achieve. If you spray too much on the first time before applying an appropriate tack coat, you will puddle the paint. Spray two tack coats on the wheel, starting out with about 50% coverage and then the second tack coat about 80% (see picture below). Allowing 15 minutes between coats, apply the third and fourth coat liberally. The third coat should be thick enough to where you don't see any more primer, but not so thick that it puddles. Use the fourth coat to finish up any areas that might seem thin. Spray in a nice even, short burst motion. Make sure to get all the cracks and angles of your rim. It's best to move around the rim as you paint, spraying from different angles to get the best coverage. After you have applied the third and fourth coats, allow the paint to dry for at least an hour before applying the clear coat. I chose to order three cans even though Grimmspeed only calls for two. Two is plenty, but I use my Subaru off road so I will need that extra can for off road "mishaps".

Protection
Because you have painted the surface of the rim and not actually changed the color of the material, the rims are now subject to chipping, scratching, and chemical attacks. To prevent this from happening, you want to first choose the best type of paint. Grimmspeed's BBS gold replicolor is high strength, and literally the most resilient paint out there. Adding a high strength clear coat protectant to this paint will give you the best resilience out there. I chose to go with Dupont clear coat wheel paint. It features a polymer like protection and gives the wheels a great shine. You can pick it up at Advance or Autozone! Applying the clear coat is the same as the primer and paint. Start out with a 50% tack coat, apply a second 80% tack coat, and then use the third and fourth coatings for liberal protection. A good thick coating of this stuff will appear almost plastic like, and give your wheel the best protection out there. It may appear to be dry in an hour or so, but it doesn't actually cure for 7 days. It's best to let the wheels sit during this period to avoid unnecessary chipping and scratching.

Example of primer tack coat coverage

Example of primer coat

Example of painted with index cards

Example of paint tack coat coverage

What are you waiting for? Get started now! Check out GrimmSpeed's BBS Gold wheel paint at www.GrimmSpeed.com

WRX STi Mishimoto M line front mount intercooler system

2010-01-05T18:15:00.015-05:00

For those of us who wish to save money and get the biggest front mount intercooler setup possible, custom fabrication is the only choice we have. Perrin and APS make a great front mount intercooler setup but they are rather expensive and don't have the biggest bang for buck. Using the Mishimoto M-Line front mount intercooler and custom bracket fabrication, you can have a massive front mount intercooler system with 276.125 square inches of surface area for under $800.00 including intercooler, bracket, piping, couplers, and fasteners. The surface area of Perrin's core is only 129.5 square inches, while APS's claimed "massive" front mount system only yields 266 square inches. Perrin's cost for the front mount intercooler kit is $1500, while the APS cost is $1600. Save money, live better. Custom fabrication!

Cost per square inch of cooling surface

Perrin: $1500 for 129.5 sq. in. @ $11.58
APS: $1600 for 266 sq. in @ $6.01
Custom fabrication: $800.00 for 276.125 sq. in. @ $2.89

Cost per square inch isn't the only thing you need to be concerned about. Just because it features a larger surface area, doesn't always mean it's better. But for those of us who are trying to save a dollar and still have the bennefit of a front mount intercooler system, the custom fabrication system using Mishimoto's M-Line intercooler is the way to go for larger turbos, 16G and up. So how do we build it? Read below.

Building the front mount intercooler bracket
First, we must fabricate the bracket. Follow the normal steps to remove the front bumper, and then you will be ready to construct your bracket. I used 3/8 x 36" stock from Lowe's, two pieces, for a total of $25.00 spent in materials. Use chalk to mark off the top of the bumper, so you can get a good idea where to place the bracket. Once it's marked off, place the first piece of stock just below it and vice grip it to the frame. Put your stock bumper back up to check for clearance, and adjust as needed. You will want about 1/4 inch clearance between the bumper and upper bracket. Once that's marked, you'll need to build the attachment portion of the bracket.

The attachment portion of the bracket attaches where the bumper beam was attached on the four bolts sticking out of the frame. Line up the metal and score the upper stock where you think it will line up. Cut it to shape. Next, cut 5 inches worth of attachment bracket from the material. One for each side, this will give you enough room for adjustment if the bolts don't drill up exactly correct. Unless you have a drill press, they'll never be perfect! Build a wooden jig and use a hammer to tap the bolts into the wood. This will give you an approximate location for which to drill from. Use an appropriate sized drill bit, just slightly larger than bolts to drill out the jig. Next, you will need to score the center line using a height gauge with carbide scriber. This will give you a center line to work with when drilling. If the drill goes off center, don't worry because you can use a bur and grinder to fix it. Once you have the holes drilled out, test it on the chassis. You will see that there is a gap between the flat portion of the chassis and upper bracket. Two washers for each bolt, under the attachment bracket will solve this issue. Once it's drilled and setup, you are ready to weld.

Attachment bracket to chassis

Using vice grips, keep the bracket on the chassis for an weld in assembly setup. You will need to tack weld the bracket together in order for a perfect fit. Once it's tack welded, remove it and finish the weld on the bench. After you have it welded, check it once again for fitment. If there is any issues, use a burr and grinder to mill out the difference until it fits. If you did it right, there should be no fitment issues. You're not done yet!

Next you will need to cut and build upper attachment brackets to attach to the upper bracket piece. These connect the pre-drilled locations on the top of the Mishimoto M-line intercooler to the front mount intercooler bracket. You will want to set them up to bring the intercooler about 3/4 of an inch away from the chassis to ensure proper bumper fitment and no rubber. Once they are even, using vice grips keep the brackets attached to the bracket and tack weld on the bench. After they are tack welded, finish the weld completely. Now you should have a front mount intercooler bracket with upper attachment brackets. Test with your intercooler to make sure of proper fitment, if so proceed to build the lower attachment brackets.

Upper intercooler attachment bracket

You can stop here if you want, but if you plan to off road your vehicle you want the front mount intercooler as sturdy as possible. I decided to build lower attachment brackets that go from the bottom of the intercooler to the front chassis subframe. If you look under the car, you will see two bolts. This is your attachment point. Construct the brackets out of the remaining material, drill, and attach. Once it's all in place, you will want to put a coat of paint over the steel to resist rust. Rustoleum or Krylon works well, and you can go the extra mile and put a clearcoat on it. I decided to go with black to stay consistent with the black stealth intercooler.

Finished product

Additional notes! Notice that due to the massive size of the Mishimoto FMIC, you will need to get a front bumper lip to cover it up. There is about an inch of difference, and this can be covered by using a lip and carbon fiber front spiller. The lip and splitter combo will seal off the bottom of the FMIC system and reduce debris wear and tear. If used in combo with a front skid plate, this will also greatly improve aerodynamics because there will be no drag under the vehicle. I also suggest using a front mount intercooler water spray to go along with the FMIC. It will help reduce temps drastically!

Doing this yourself? Questions? Email me at mberenis@gmail.com and I'll help you out my fellow FMIC fabricator!

WRC hood vent installation DIY

2009-12-28T18:06:00.012-05:00

Installing the WRC hood vent is a fairly simple task, but you must cut the hood. The most difficult part of this task is making sure the hood vent is centered. Working with a grinding wheel takes skill and practice as well. If you do not have any experience cutting metal, I do not suggest attempting this install. We have over 50 years experience with metal and grinding wheels, so it was more of a time consuming task rather than difficult. The key thing you want to remember is that you can always remove more metal, but you can't ever replace it. Cut it out progressively, and do it right. If not, you'll be looking at replacing your hood!

WRC hood vent theory
The theory behind using a WRC hood vent with out the actual WRC style front mount intercooler is that the low pressure just above the hood combined with the "sucking in" effect of the hood scoop will create a circular ventilation that removes all heat trapped at the top of the engine bay. Heat rises, so removing this will drop engine temps, intake temps, oil temps, etc dramatically. This is a good idea for anyone who plans to run the piss out of their car! It reduces the chances of detonation as well, due to the lower temps and you can run more boost safely. Oh yeah, it also looks very cool!

Installation
Start by removing the hood from the vehicle. There will be aluminum flying everywhere, so cut in a place that offers plenty of light and ventilation away from your vehicle. Next, line up the vent on the hood. It should be placed about an inch past the hood scoop's plane. There is a radius bend in the hood in the shape of a U that adds strength and style to your hood. You will want to make sure you leave this U shape in the metal hood alone, because you are cutting the structural components of the hood and you need all the extra support you can get.

Lay the vent on the hood carefully, because fiberglass will scratch paint. Using a tape measure, check and make sure it is evenly lined up. You will want to check the sides, top, and bottom of the vent. (Top being towards the rear of the hood and bottom towards the front) After everything is lined up, use a black marker to outline the outer section of the inner vent scoop. The inner vent scoop is the part of the vent that actually goes into the hood. Making a trace of the perimeter of the interior vent scoop, this will give you a good starting point for the cut.

Now it's time to cut. Using a cutting wheel and air compressor, slowly start to cut out the traced line of the vent. Use the cutting wheel to cut the majority of the straight lines, and then switch to a grinding wheel to grind out the corners. The initial cut is only the beginning, and you will need additional cuts to make it fit. Keep slowly checking the vent to see where it hangs up, and make more cuts. You will want to check it each time with the tape measure and make sure you are centered. This is tricky, because grinding out the additional metal to fit the vent can throw the location of center. After the vent fits smoothly down into the hood, proceed.

The hood vent should firmly fit in the hood. Now is the time to paint the vent to match. Once it's been painted, the next step is to use a metal to fiberglass compliant epoxy to secure the vent to the hood. Sand off the paint on the hood and vent where you plan to "glue" the vent to the hood to maximize contact surface area. Once you have everything sanded down, you need to fasten the vent to the hood. Epoxy is one choice, but can be sloppy. Another good choice is to use mechanical fasteners strategically placed in the center and sides of the vent. This is the best because there is no chance of the fastening device uplifting. When drilling, keep an even plane with the surface of the vent so the screws sit flush. Additionally, you can add wire mesh to help keep rocks and debris out of the engine bay, painted black or left metallic. The choice is yours- but a mesh is strongly suggested as the belts will be exposed. Also, hood pins are suggested because this vent will cause additional lift under the hood at high speeds.

WRX STi hood pin install DIY

2009-12-25T19:19:00.009-05:00

If you are considering installation of hood pins for your Subaru Impreza WRX or STi, this write up will show you exactly how to do it. The need for hood pins occurs when you change the aerodynamics of the stock hood, or expect to travel at high enough speeds continuously that the stock hood rattles. Hood pins will solve any issues with the aforementioned. I'm cutting a WRC style vent in my hood, so the additional lift due to cooling the engine bay may cause the hood to become unstable. Hood pins are the solution!

The hood pin installation on our vehicles is especially easy when using the already supplied hood bumper locations. In the front of the Impreza, there are two hood bumper stops located by the the headlights on the radiator beam. Start by removing these two rubber stops and drilling them with a diameter slightly smaller than your hood pin. This extra tight space will ensure proper fitment and placement. Make sure to drill straight up and down or this can mis-align your pins. If you fail to drill straight up and down, they will still work if failed within a few degrees. Any more than a few degrees and you'll be pulling the pin towards the location every time you latch the hood shut.

Once your hood bumper stops are drilled, use a vice and press to rotate the rubber onto the pins. This can be a timely process depending on the girth of your hood pins. Using wd40 is a good way to accelerate this process and prevent the rubber from friction heat and tearing. You'll want to twist the rubber to the point where the hood pin lines up with the hood. Start by leaving extra space, and then after you drill the hood tune the depth properly.

Now it's time to drill the hood. Take the hood pin base and twist it back into the hood bumper stop. Lower the hood down to where the pins touch the hood (carefully) and use the pin to make a scratch in the hood, in the shape of an "X". The center is the approximate location you will want to drill. Start by drilling a pilot hole with a much smaller bit. Then move your way up, careful not to let the hood pull on the drill. Any pulling on the drill will cause dents on the outer surface.

Once you have the initial holes drilled, you may be ready to mount the exterior portion of the hood pin, or more work may be required depending on the shape of your pin. I used a square tipped pin, so I needed to file the hole into the shape of the pin. Some hood pins are latches, and require an oval or other odd shape to be cut out of the hood. I personally avoided these expensive types of hood pins because of installation difficulty and requires extensive tooling to perform the cuts needed. Function is function in my opinion, so I opted for the cheap $10.00 ebay specials.

After filing the slots for my hood pins, it was time to check and see if they lined up. Lower the hood down onto the pins and make any up/down adjustments required on the hood bumper/pin combo installed earlier. Remove the pin and put back in the vice and twist, lowering or raising to the desired location. Check with the exterior hood pin bracket uninstalled, so you can make sure you are mounting dead on. After everything checks out, you are ready to install the exterior hood pin brace. My brace comes with three attachment points, but due to the shape of the hood I could only use two. It also came with pop rivets, which I did not use. I opted to use a nut & bolt combination but in only two of the three mounting points.

By using this setup, it's adequate and optimal compared to the original ebay universal setup. Mark your drill points in the bracket with an X using any small sharp object. Drill the first hole, and then again check the bracket against your previously marked point. After drilling the first hole, the second hole may slightly change position. Double checking prevents error, and after all you are drilling into your HOOD. This is a very noticable place for error so do everything right, the first time. Once it's lined up right, drill the second hole and finish by installing the nut and bolt combination. After everything is set and you know your done with the project, spray some clear coat over the area while plugging the hood pin hole from the top, to eliminate the chance of any rust.

WRX bumper removal

2009-12-18T15:44:00.007-05:00

To remove the Subaru Impreza WRX bumper, it's very easy. Many times, people want to remove the bumper to install a front mount intercooler, custom bumper, or fix the one they've currently got. Either way, the removal is basically the same. Below you will find a step by step instruction on how to remove the WRX bumper. Because you will be tampering with a location that has airbag sensors, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST!

Headlight removal
Start the bumper removal by taking the headlights off. There is one bolt on top by the upper hood rail, and there are two 12mm bolts located behind the inner headlight covers. These inner headlight covers pop off using a small flat head screw driver. Once you get the top of the inner headlight cover pop screws off, pull them out towards the front of the vehicle. There is a guide clip that will come loose, make sure not to break it by pulling directly forward. Once the covers are off, you will see the remaining two 12mm bolts holding the headlights in place. Disconnect the wires from the headlights, or remove the bulbs it's your choice. Then take out the two 12mm bolts, and the headlights become free to remove.

Grill removal
Next you will want to remove the grill. The grill is held in place by several push release fasteners. Simply use a small flat head screw driver and push down gently to release the push release fasteners. Don't forget about the two push release fasteners on the lower driver and passenger side of the grill. If you break them, use a plastic zip tie to fix things up. Once they are released, the grill will easily be removed. If it's still stuck in one point, follow the tension to the remaining push release fastener.

Bumper cover removal
Removing the bumper is more difficult than the headlights and grill, but it follows the same style of manufacturing. It is held in place by several plastic pop rivets. These rivets if old can be somewhat of a nuessence to remove if the vehicle is high mileage or has been used off road. The best method is to first try and remove the inner of the plastic pop rivet to release the tension. If it can't be done this way, use a much large flat head screw driver and just pry them out. Chances are they will not break, but if they do they can be replaced with plastic zip tie or go and buy more at the Subaru dealer for a couple bucks per piece. There are several plastic pop rivets located in the bumper. There are a couple on the top by the grill, one behind the fender cover attaching to the fender, and a couple underneath. There is one in each brake duct, and one in the center. Once these are all removed, it will be easy to pull the bumper directly forward. Before pulling it forward, make sure you have a blanket on the ground to prevent any scratching. If the bumper is still stuck and won't come off, follow the tension until you find the devilish little bastard clip holding it in place. With every project, there is a bastard clip, bolt, nut, etc. Once the bumper is free, set it aside.

Bumper beam removal
For those of use continuing on to install a front mount intercooler, it is necessary to remove the stock bumper beam. This is a great opportunity for drastic weight reduction, as this beam weighs about 30 to 40 pounds. It is held in place by 8 retaining bolts that will need a breaker bar to remove loose. If yours are still stuck, try spaying a loosening agent on them and letting it soak. Then the bolts should be removed quite easily. There is four bolts on each side, and the entire unit comes off in one piece. It may look like it's welded in place, but it's not. See picture below for reference.

Caution: removing the bumper beam is dangerous and will affect your crash rating drastically. It is not recommended for street use. By removing the crash beam, you will loose the 5 mph crash buffer.

WRX STi reverse intake manifold

2009-12-06T16:37:00.009-05:00

Installing a reverse intake manifold is easier than you think. Reverse intake manifold setups are used in conjunction with front mount intercoolers. The standard intake manifold layout requires the front mount intercooler piping travel from the driver's side fog light, up and over the engine, and around the back to the throttle body. By using a reverse intake manifold, the intercooler piping only runs up the engine and into the throttle body. This will improve throttle response, reduce thermal soak over the driver's side heads, plus increased curb appeal. To install the reverse manifold, you can use a stock manifold or an aftermarket version. I chose to go with the aftermarket version and use a stainless steel & chrome plated, custom welded intake manifold. You do not need an aftermarket or custom intake manifold, but it makes the functionality, appearance, and ease of future modification and tweaks much easier.

Items needed for reverse intake manifold install:

34 inch alternator belt
8mm GrimmSpeed phenolic gaskets
Two sets of GrimmSpeed lower TGV gaskets
OEM Subaru top TGV gaskets (one set)
New fuel injector rails
Throttle body coolant mod
Custom FMIC piping
TGV delete recommended but not required

1. Remove stock intake manifold and TGV's
Start by removing the old intake manifold, see TGV delete.

2. Lower alternator
Once you have the top taken apart down to the heads, it's time to lower the alternator. Some people say you must get rid of air conditioning when performing a reversal of the intake manifold. This is not true, and only requires that you drop the alternator as low as possible with out touching the air conditioning belt. You will want to leave about 2mm between the alternator housing and air conditioning belt to allow for centrifugal expansion. The alternator lowers by a small lower agent on the passenger side of the alternator. Loosen it up along with the mounting bolt, and lower. Getting the new 34 inch belt on is extremely difficult and requires two people. Make sure you do not puncture the radiator hose during this process, it is easy to slip and pierce through the thin rubber or silicone. Start by looping the belt around the crank, then alternator, and then finally force it over the power steering pump. By doing it this way, when the engine turns over if there is any slack left over it will jump on the rest of the way. Take your time, and keep using a large flat head screw driver to pry the belt on. It's tough but you can do it!

3. Re-installation
Make sure you line up the TGV phenolic spacers and install them correctly. Once you have the TGV's attached, go ahead and install the turbo inlet. While a stock inlet works, since you are in there you might as well switch out to a silicone inlet. These are much more flexible but require some avid forcing during installation. Even with the TGV sensors removed, a non-rotated turbo setup will create a blockage area between the TGV and intake side turbo inlet (the turbo not the silicon part). This takes careful wedging and wiggling, just keep trying you can get it even. It may appear like the turbo inlet is on, but in fact it's crooked and will leak. (Click on the picture on right for correct installation appearance) It will also affect air flow if not properly installed. You must get it to line up right! Take your time and make sure it lines up correctly. Once it is lined up seal it off with a metal tie - mechanical fastener.

While reinstalling, make sure to use a proper tightening pattern so that the manifold, TGV's, and gaskets seal equally. This is very important! Use a star pattern to ensure a proper seal. You will also need to torque the bolts down slightly past stock spec, see shop manual for info. The intake manifold might be a little tough to get on, if so use a hammer and a piece of wood to evenly bring the intake manifold down on the upper TGV alignment bolts. Keeping everything even during installation is key. When it is finished and ready for custom FMIC piping and throttle body, it should look something like this:

I will be using in addition to the custom intake manifold a 70mm throttle body that matches the intake manifold TB port. Consider swapping to the 70mm throttle body while performing this modification to make the best of your time involved.

For more information visit the reversed intake manifold thread on NASIOC.

WRX STi external wastegate EWG install DIY

2009-11-27T21:48:00.009-05:00

Installation of an external wastegate for your WRX or STi can seem difficult at first. How do you hook it up? Does it need to be tuned for? These an many other questions can arise when considering an EWG. So let's answer the basic questions. Does it need to be tuned for? Yes it does. You can use an open source tune or purchase a piggy back / stand alone engine management system like TurboXS UTEC, Cobb accessport, or other stand alone EMS. How do we hook it up? Basically, you run a line from your turbo vac port to your manual boost controller, and then to the side port of the Tial EWG. That is the easy part, actually installing it can be tricky.

First of all, you will need an aftermarket up pipe. I chose to go with Perrin's up pipe because it has a 44mm inner diameter, and is made of quality material that can be welded or modified. You can purchase up pipes that come with an EWG already welded in place, but what is the fun in that? I chose to install my EWG in a semi-hidden fashion that locates the majority of the equipment under the down pipe. Some say you can't run a divorced down pipe with an EWG, that is false. Using a custom welded up pipe, I was able to still use the Perrin divorced down pipe. So the rumor of "no divorced down pipe" is false if you run a custom welded up pipe. I took my up pipe to S&R performance of Tampa Bay for my custom welding. They are the best around!

My hidden EWG under the divorced down pipe

Secondly, you will need a dump tube. You can get one custom fabricated, or you can purchase the ATP turbo flanged stainless dump tube for Tial 44mm. That's what I used, and it works perfectly. Good quality material, exceptional weld, and a perfect fitment! It also dumps nicely down the side of the transmission case in the middle of the vehicle for optimal sound and unique hidden location. See picture below for how the dump tube is setup on my vehicle.

Dump tube running down the tranny case

Make sure you pick a wastegate pressure spring that is about half of your goal PSI. I chose to go with a 10 psi spring because I want to run about 20 psi out of my turbo. The spring pressure determines where your wastegate will open along the boost. 10 psi spring will start opening at 10 psi. For the best flow, you want your wastegate to be approximately the same size as your up pipe. I chose the 44mm Tial wastegate because my Perrin up pipe is also 44 mm. This will in effect be a boost controlled exhaust cut out located between my turbo and exhaust manifold, releasing pressurized gas at 10 p.s.i. - It will be VERY loud and VERY effective in reducing spool time.

I keep it hidden...
View from passenger side behind front wheel while kneeling down to look under car

View from sticking the camera up under the car and looking up

Additional modifications for running an EWG is you will need a turbo setup for external wastegating (is that even a word lol?). You can pick turbos that have no internal wastegate, or you can modify your turbo to run EWG by welding the old wastegate shut or using a wastegate bracket. The best is to weld it shut and remove the old wastegate. It's better in appearance and functionality, because brackets tend to lose tension torque over time as they are exposed to hot and cold heat changes. If you must use a bracket, use some kind of locking adhesive to lower the chance of pressure opening your stock internal wastegate. If it does leak or open, this can cause tuning headaches and rich conditions.

Overall, an EWG is an awesome modification but takes some preparation and supporting mods. It is not suggested for the average builder due to it's complexity during install. Also, adding a wastegate makes for even less room in the turbo area and creates a need for special tools during installation. I spent nearly three hours on the bottom bolt turning it 1/16 of a turn to get mine installed "hidden" under the down pipe. Worth it? Yes, to me at least. Check out a video of an external wastegate similar to my setup. I will post my own video once the build is complete (Jan or Feb of 2010)

Video content: WRX STi running 44mm Tial wastegate

Hear the "hiss" about half way through the RPM band? That's the EWG venting to atmosphere. PS- This is not street legal and should only be used for off road purposes. As you can see by the mud hidden inside of my car, I only drive mine off road and when I must drive it on road, I will swap turbos and up pipes to return to internal wastegating. ;-)

TurboXS UTEC installation for WRX

2009-11-21T21:19:00.012-05:00

Installing a TurboXS UTEC on a Subaru Impreza WRX is an extremely easy task. The unit is basically plug and play, the only complication involved is in actual tuning. The TurboXS is capable of destroying engine if not properly tuned. Take special care to read the manual! If you do not feel 100% comfortable with fuel, ignition, and boost maps leave the tuning up to the professionals and run generic maps from TurboXS found below.

Needed files for UTEC installation

Installation

The stock ECU is located in the passenger foot well just beneath the carpet and ECU protection shroud. To access this area, there is a couple of carpet screws around the top edge of the carpet you will need to remove. Next, you will need to pull up the passenger kick board. Start removing this kick board by taking the snap fastener out of the kick board located towards the top in the door sill. A small screw driver can be used to pop this out. Then, the kick board basically snaps in and out and can be removed easily.

Now you should be able to pull the carpet back to see the ECU protection shroud. Take a 10mm socket and remove the couple of bolts holding the protection plate. Once the protection plate is removed, set it aside. You will then notice a plastic cover over the stock ECU. On the right side, you will see a wire harness loaded with over 100 wires. You need to disconnect these with your fingers and pull them out very carefully. Do not pull them out by the wires, make sure you have a good grip on the actual plastic snaps. If they will not budge, a simple flat head screw driver can be used to pry them out if carefully asserted. Only force in the outward direction and slowly apply force otherwise you may risk breaking a snap.

Once the wires are removed, you are ready to insert the UTEC pigtails in place of the stock ECU pigtails. These basically snap right in! Next insert the stock pigtail into the UTEC in the same manner. The only other wiring that needs to be done is to run a ground from the UTEC to the X frame. There is a bolt located and the bottom of the X frame at about 6 o'clock that is a great place for a ground. Run the ground and secure any additional wire to make for a clean installation.

External Map Selector and Launch Control
If you plan on hooking up an external map selector, a good place to install this is next to the emergency brake in the empty switch slots provided by Subaru. Additionally, launch control can be installed along with separate solenoid control. The map selector switch can be used to change maps on the fly as long as your under 1600 RPM. Take special caution when changing maps, and be sure to fill all map locations with actual maps. If there is no data, it will load zeros and could result in engine damage.

Launch control is hooked up by cutting the wires on the clutch switch, located under the driver's side dash. Looking right at the top of the clutch, you can see an activator ground switch with two wires, yellow/green and yellow/red. Cut the wires with enough to work with. The wires leading into the harness need to be jumped together by using a simple end connector and adjoining the ends in a loop. This will allow cruise control to be used, however the clutch will not deactivate cruise control as it once did. The wires coming out of the clutch switch need to be connected to the lead out of the external map selector. Launch control will activate only when the clutch is fully activated at the specified RPM set in parameters.

Connecting to the UTEC
Connecting to the UTEC's interface can be done with a serial cable, or serial to USB cable. I went with a serial to USB cable purchased at RadioShack made by Gigaware. This adapter comes with driver software so you can configure it as a COM port. TurboXS suggests Belkin, however, Belkin's adapter does not feature screws to securely fasten the serial cable into the UTEC. A loose adapter over time can cause a short, make sure your plug uses screws to securely fasten to the ports. Using window's "Hyper Terminal" program, you can connect to the UTEC with a laptop or PC. Select 19200 baud rate and leave the rest alone. Once connected, save the connection as a file on your desktop so you can access it again easily. There is a supplied 9v batter connector that can be used for interfacing with the UTEC while it is not plugged into the vehicle, or if your vehicle does not have a battery. Load the latest firmware upgrade and check out the UTEC's interface.

Tuning
Now you can start tuning! If you know how to tune, you don't need to read any more and you probably didn't need this installation guide. For the rest of us, we may need to seek a third party tuner. For more tuning information, check with a local performance shop to see who performs custom tunes around your area. Florida has "Snowman", "Gadiel", "3gSucks", and Scott Siegel. I choose 3gSucks because I trust him with my vehicle and he is extensively skilled in tuning the WRX. To this date, no blown engines. Now that's a tuner I trust!

Still confused? Visit the NASIOC UTEC forum!

Subaru turbo list

2009-11-19T17:11:00.008-05:00

A list of Subaru compatible turbos is a hand set of information for anyone that is looking to upgrade the performance of their Impreza WRX or STi. There are more turbos available than what is listed below, but these are basic bolt on turbos that are most widely used. For average performance gains without heavy support modification, turbos such as 16g and VF34 are simple installation that require only injectors and a tune. When changing your turbo, it's best to remove the catalytic converter from the up pipe. This is commonly known to cause catastrophic turbo and engine failure when it breaks apart shooting debris everywhere.

Overall, upgrading your turbo is fairly easy with basic mechanical knowledge. When upgrading your turbo, you must get a new tune. If you do not get a new tune, you engine will run lean and destroy itself. The same goes with manual boost controllers! Anytime you change how much air you are running through the engine you need to adjust the ECU tune, and possibly upgrade the fuel system if your changes are big enough. For a simple boost tune on a stock turbo, you can reach about 19.5 psi with out knock if you max out your injectors and run a walbro 255 fuel pump. Upgrading the fuel pump is a wise idea even with 100% stock setup just to make sure you have ample amounts of fuel for the injectors to feed from.

For going with a larger turbo like 20g, rotated, or similar it is wise to upgrade the injectors, fuel rails, fuel pump, and add an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator like SARD or Aeromotive. Be careful when ordering these online as counterfeits with under par assembly do exist. The fuel system is not somewhere you want to save a penny. Faulty parts lead to leaks which cause fires. Upgrading a turbo just a few steps up is okay for the average person, but taking a leap into a large turbo takes time and skill. It's not just one modification, it's a series of carefully planned out modifications combined with extensive tuning. It can be done, but it's not easy.

Subaru turbo list
Below you will find a list of turbo's from small to large by manufacturer that are commonly used on the Subaru Impreza WRX and Sti. For a list of compression maps, click here.

Mitsubishi
TD04L-13T
IHI VF10
IHI VF11
IHI VF12
IHI VF13
IHI VF14
IHI VF18
IHI VF19
IHI VF20
IHI VF22
IHI VF23
IHI VF24
IHI VF25
IHI VF26
IHI VF27
IHI VF28
IHI VF29
IHI VF30
IHI VF31
IHI VF32
IHI VF33
IHI VF34
IHI VF35
IHI VF36
IHI VF37
IHI VF38
IHI VF39
IHI VF40
IHI VF41
IHI VF42
IHI VF43
IHI VF46

Forced Performance
Standard 16G
Big16G
Evo3 16G
18G
20G
Green
Red

Turbochargers.com
Big 16G
TD06H-20G
Frank 50
Frank 60
Frank 35

Momentum
EJ5-40T

Deadbolt via boostplanet
Standard 16G
Big 16G
Super 16G
18G
20G
Superzilla

APS
SR30
SR40
SR56
DR65
TSR70

AVO
320
400L
400S
450
500

Helix
RR500

Slowboy Racing
GT-10
GT-11
GT-12
GT-13
GT-14
35R

Blitz
K3-6
K3-8

Power Enterprise
1818
1820

GReddy
TZ518Z
TD06S-20G
T67 25G

GPMoto
GT32
GT40/37

HKS
GT2540R

Forced Air Technologies
GT25

Element Tuning
GT49
GT52
GT65

Garrett
T3/T04E
T3/T04S
GT30R
GT35R
GT40R
GT42R

Blouch
TD05H-16G
TD05H-16G
Evo III TD05H-16G
TD05H-18G
TD06H-18G
TD05H-20G
TD06H-20G
Dominator 2.5R "Polka Pickle"
Dominator 1.0
Dominator 2.0
Dominator 3.0R

WRX STi halo headlights install

2009-11-13T22:49:00.010-05:00

The halo headlights by themselves are horrible units and need some modification to be even remotely worth your time. However, for the right application it is nice to have a set of cheap headlights with separate high and low beams. For off road and rally use, the halo headlights are excellent because they offer a cheap housing ready for modification. Ability to light up all six lights at once (fog, hi, low) it is a simple wiring trick. This is a guide on how to properly modify the halo headlights for adequate usage for off road or amateur rally:
Wiring it to all turn on at once!
The stock wiring harness that comes with the WRX halo headlights commonly found on ebay is inferior, and typically doesn't work right from the factory. They have it wired up for a different vehicle even though it fits. The WRX uses a common ground wiring style and relay system. You will want to replace the wiring harness that comes with the halo headlights with wiring harness for the bulbs from your local auto store. This is much thicker wiring and will last longer than what comes on the halo's.

High and Low beams
For wiring up both high and low beams to be used simultaneously, an additional toggle switch and relay. This is best mounted in your spare switch placements Subaru gave us located just past the steering column. I have my auxiliary and high beam switches located here as seen below:

The high beam switch controls the high beam lights on a separate circuit, wired into accessory that way the lights must go off when the key is removed to avoid unwanted battery drainage. The low beams operate on the normal Subaru circuitry and switches. The fog lights operate on the same switch but with modified circuitry.
Fog lights
The fog lights make use of a "fog light mod" that attaches the orange wire from the back of the middle of the fuse box located by the steering wheel to the red with green striped wire that goes to the fourth down from the top relay on the back of the same fuse box. This allows you to turn on your fog lights with just parking, high beam, or low beam lights and renders the switch independent from OEM usage constraints.

Summary
By modifying the stock headlight system with custom wiring, upgrading the bulbs to high quality spectrum output, HID fog lights, and Hella 500 auxiliary pencil beams with special mounting system, the Halo headlights found on eBay can be used safely and should off road damage occur it will only be $150 to replace the headlights instead of around $700-$1000!

Video content: walk around of my modified lighting system

WRX STi Lamco oil temperature sensor

2009-11-13T22:13:00.007-05:00

If you are the average 2002-2004 Subaru WRX and STi owner, you may have experienced a faulty Lamco oil temperature sensor. The oil temperature sensor in our WRX typically goes bad around 60,000 miles or twenty oil changes. Improper tools used to change the oil trap the sensor cord between the wrench surface and can cause shorting. Sometimes you can just reconnect the wires, but if you are one of the unfortunate few who have the separation problem right at the sensor bung, the only choice is OEM replacement or sandwich plate oil cooler port probing.
How can I tell my sensor is bad?
A typical bouncy or even dead temperature sensor is the usual sign your sensor needs to be replaced is is incorrectly installed. If any of the wires in the oil temperature gauge system are no longer in continuity, you will get false readings either completely dead or maxed out. A leaky oil temperature sensor is typically not cause for replacement and is only missing the crush washer. This happens frequently by inexperienced mechanics and new Subaru owners that wish to change their oil at home. Only replace your oil temperature sensor when the temperature data is no longer being sent to the gauge, not for leaks unless the oil is originating through the wire bung!
How do I fix it?
The replacement can be found here, and it is Subaru part number h5010fc025. Or you can use a magnetic drain plug and install an oil cooler kit. In the sandwich adapter plate installed between the oil filter and oil filter attachment point, there is a spot for a standard 1/8 NPT thermocouple. Not all sandwich plate adapters have these plug points but some do. Alternatively, you might be able to re-attach the wires by stripping and soldering them back together. If you find the thermocouple doesn't work with your old Lamco gauge, try a digital Auber Instruments LCD gauge with alarm feature. If your oil gets too hot, this little guy can set off an alarm buzzer, remote LED, plus internal LED light. Great for racing applications and EGT, AIT, liquid pressure, and boost data!

Gymkhana FAQ

2009-11-12T14:17:00.005-05:00

It's here! FAQ of Gymkhana, a recent interview with Ken Block covered the most frequently asked questions about his Gymkhana films. On the one year anniversary of the original, this Gymkhana FAQ is a memorial to the first viral film that rocked the Subaru world. All Subaru enthusiasts know about the first Gymkhana video, second, and raise the questions about a third. Several other questions are addressed in this video concerning the Gymkhana videos produced by Ken Block. If you are unfamiliar with the Gymkhana series check out the videos below and get up to date!

Gymkhana video series:

Ken Block has captured the world of automotive enthusiasts with his amazing films. A tribute to the quality of Subaru vehicles, the stunts were performed using mostly stock parts. A stock transmission and all-wheel drive system from the STi was used in the film! Amazing that an OEM part can take such abuse. Furthermore, Ken Block also has plans of recording a Gymkhana 3 video sometime in 2010. Enjoy the following footage fellow Subaru owners, below are the answers to many of your questions.

Video content: Ken Block Gymkhana FAQ

Check out the latest video, Ken Block's Trax STI snowmobile!

Impreza WRX STi fuel tank skid plates

2009-11-08T16:38:00.008-05:00

Fuel tank skid plates used for rally purpose can also be used on our Impreza WRX STi. The Subaru fuel tanks have a plastic surrounding that is not as strong as most would prefer for off road use. The last thing we need is to hit a rock or stump and have gasoline spilling everywhere! This could cause a fire, and pollute the planet with gasoline spill off. In an effort to provide extensive protection for the most hardcore Subaru drivers, www.eleven11motorsport.com and Subypal.com have joined forces to develop a fuel tank skid plate system for Impreza. These fuel tank skid plates will give us the protection we need for the peace of mind we deserve while off road or rallying.

Fuel tank skid plates used on WRC Subaru Impreza

No more worrying about stumps, rocks, etc! The www.eleven11motorsport.com Subaru Impreza WRX and STi fuel tank skid plates will be strong enough to withstand abusive punishment. The project is not finalized yet, but I will keep you all up to date on the progress. Check back here often! Soon we will have a live sample and DIY video along with pictures to illustrate the strength and ease of installation of the www.eleven11motorsport.com Subaru fuel tank skid plates. Fuel tank skid plates will be available for purchase directly through www.eleven11motorsport.com via this exact post, bookmark this post and check back often!

Current status: Under development, prototype is under construction!

Eleven 11 Motorsport contact information
Website: www.eleven11motorsport.com
Email:joshua@eleven11motorsport.com
Tel: 1-417-840-8564

Ken Block's Trax STi snowmobile Impreza

2009-11-02T18:08:00.015-05:00

Another great creation from the genius folks at DCshoes.com, Ken Block and crew bring us yet another amazing video! View an up close and detailed slide show of the vehicle here! (courtesy Detroit Auto Examiner) A while ago, a preview was released showing him testing the Trax STi outside of a ski mountain in northern California. Today, the final product was released! This is an awesome video that shows an all-wheel drive Subaru pushing the limits. If you didn't love Subaru before this, get ready to fall in love. Those of us who are true Subaru fans, this is a justification of what we already know!

Video content: Ken Block's Trax STi snowmobile Subaru

The Subaru Impreza WRX STi is one of the most versatile vehicles on the face of the planet. Adding tank treads to it just makes sense! Why not, right? By watching the footage we can see just how good it performs under deep and light packed snow conditions. Blasting through drifts like the best snowmobile money can buy, one can stay warm and dry while enjoying snow blasting fun! Awesome job Ken Block, your Trax STi featuring MatTracks (model 105M1-A1) tread conversions is going to be a hit! Read more about this crazy snow car at Tampa Sports Car Examiner!

Subaru Impreza WRX parts

2009-10-29T01:35:00.009-04:00

When choosing a Subaru Impreza WRX parts vendor, there are many options. If you want to buy new parts, or used from a private Impreza WRX owner, Subaru parts are known to last a long time. When buying replacement parts try to purchase authentic Subaru parts from a dealer or licensed parts warehouse. A great source of used authentic Subaru parts is the Nasioc.com private sale forum. In this forum, thousands of parts get listed for sale at discount prices that are previously owned, new, and used. There are several other sources of quality Subaru Impreza WRX parts that are OEM and performance based, we will discuss the options below.
OEM replacement parts for Subaru Impreza WRX
First let's talk about OEM replacement parts. Shift happens, and things break down. Subaru makes awesome quality parts but let's face the facts, we drive our cars hard! Typical replacement parts include fluids, brakes, sensors, and more. Sometimes it's not wear and tear that requires us to seek parts; accidents also require purchasing of parts! If you are looking for authentic Subaru OEM replacement parts, it is best to seek your local Subaru dealer. The dealer isn't always expensive, so check them out first and you might be surprised at how low the prices really are. If you don't like their prices, you can check out third party Subaru OEM parts vendors like SubaruPartsWarehouse.com and others.
OEM, performance, and used parts

Nasioc private sale forum - This is a place where anyone can sell. Both good deals and bad exist on this forum. If you are planning on purchasing performance or OEM Subaru Impreza WRX parts, be sure to check out who the seller is. Nasioc offers a feedback on each users profile. Depending on the user feedback, you can decide who is trustworthy and who is not. Not all sellers with out feedback are bad, but the ones you want to watch for are the negative feedback sellers. Just like ebay, negative feedback indicates foul play. There are several types of parts for sale on the Nasioc private sale forum. Everything from engine and power to exterior and interior enhancements are available. This is an excellent way to save money and find the part you need. When you are looking to purchase Subaru Impreza WRX parts, check out the Nasioc private sale forum first. Warning: Nasioc is heavily moderated, they run a tight ship. You've been warned.
ScoobyTuner.com - This is the second best place to find your performance and aftermarket part needs. Scooby Tuner is a well known vendor featuring all sorts of products for Impreza, Forester, and Legacy models. Every part sold on this site is brand new, but you can expect to pay a reasonable price. Scooby Tuner has a vast directory of products and and parts for your Subaru. Everything from brakes, exhaust, power train, accessories, and apparel can be found. Check out Scooby Tuner if you can't find what your looking for on Nasioc, or if you want to make sure you are buying 100% brand new and authentic parts.
SubaruWRXparts.com - This is the third site you should check if you can't find the specific part you are looking for from Nasioc or Scooby Tuner. Offering the same thing as ScoobyTuner.com but from a different source, you can sometimes find parts that have been back ordered or not available on Scooby Tuner. This is a great third choice or price comparison site, sometimes they are cheaper than Scooby Tuner. It all depends on the specific Subaru Impreza WRX part you are seeking.

Subaru Impreza WRX performance part companies
There are a few companies out there that specialize completely in building, manufacturing, and designing performance parts for our Subarus and other JDM vehicles. Some of them also offer other Subaru Impreza WRX parts for performance or OEM replacement. This is the big list! The top names and brands in this category are listed below in no particular order:

Custom Fabricated Subaru Impreza WRX parts:

HRKparts.com

Standard suppliers and other performance sites:

No matter what type of Subaru Impreza WRX part you are looking for, you can find it through the links featured on this page. Whether it be performance, OEM, new, or used you can find it. Be sure to check out Nasioc's private sale forum first if you want to save some money! Frequently you can find practically brand new parts at prices you wouldn't even imagine. For example, "Perrin blow through boost tube" MSRP $200, on Nasioc it's $100 shipped. Sure it's used, but what can really be wrong with a tube. It might have a few scratches, but nothing major. Some parts you don't want to buy used such as sensors and gaskets. These items are best purchased new from one of the vendors above, or your local Subaru dealer.

Questions, comments, suggestions? I'm always just an email away, mberenis@gmail.com !

WRX catch can install diy

2009-10-28T23:10:00.004-04:00

Installing the catch cans appears as an easy task, but when confronted with the task at hand it can be quite omniscient. The best setup is to run two oil catch cans on your WRX. One catch can will be used for the rocker ventilation, and the other for the PCV and crank case ventilation. Both lines will feed into the intake through the turbo inlet. Mixing up these lines can cause major issues as you will be forcing boost into places that aren't normally under pressure, causing gasket failure and oil leaks. Look at the following diagram for the ideal catch can setup, using twin cans.
Mounting location
The ideal mounting location for the catch cans is to use a front mount intercooler setup, and mount the cans on the T chassis piece that connects to the upper transmission mount. Holes can be drilled into what appears to be preset positions placed by Subaru on either side of the flange. Look closely, you will see them. Drill two holes on either side (or just one works too) but be extremely careful not to slip with the drill into your brake lines. When trying to line up the drill, you will see it hits the AC line. Gently push this AC line towards the back of the vehicle about an inch or so, just enough to fit the drill. The AC line can flex just a bit. After you get it drilled, mount them up accordingly with your kit. If you have any exposed metal from the fasteners used that is near the brake lines, use some kind of rubber grommet or cap to prevent wear on the lines.
Rocker vents
As you can see in the diagram above, the rocker vents and the crank case vents are feeding into separate catch cans. The lines from the rocker vents are adjoined by a brass three way T fitting, which leads into one side of the catch can. From this point, you take the line and run it to your intake. Be sure to check periodically your oil level.
PCV / Crank case
Hooking up the PCV crank case is pretty straight forward. Run one line from the side of the PCV that goes to the intake to the catch can, and from the catch can back to the intake inlet port. This is where most people screw up. If you take the line from the throttle body, this is exposed to boost and you could spring a leak. By using only one can, this is the source of boost that gets blown into your rocker vents. Make sure you run a line from the inlet side of the PCV to the catch can, and from the catch can to the inlet.

Ken Block's rally car picture

2009-10-24T16:11:00.006-04:00

Above you will see a picture of Ken Block's rally car taken at the pits during a recent north east rally event sent to me by my friends up north. Picture courtesy of Shifted2u.com's Tony Money and Sebastian Wynters! These guys are really cool to share with us this photo of the Subaru God's chariot. Thank you! Take some time and visit their website to learn more about their reality show where viewers pick outrageous stunts, schemes, and plots for the hosts to encounter. Click on the picture of Ken Block's rally car to see it in full size.
Look at the headlights on that beast! It is really setup for the north east, for sure. You can see in the picture a pit crew member turning some wrenches while sporting the Subaru blue shirt. By the looks of this monster, it will do very well for many rally events to come. Keep an eye out for Ken Block in your neighborhood! Below is a video of Ken ripping up a track in the above vehicle- awesome!
Video content: Block & Atkinson RWD practice

More pictures courtesy Shifted2u.com!

How to remove WRX turbo

2009-10-12T19:43:00.005-04:00

Removing the WRX turbo is an easy task that can be completed with the right tools in a short period of time. Any shade tree mechanic with the proper procedure can complete this WRX turbo removal. Lots of WRX owners aren't satisfied with the stock turbo's, nor do they wish to pay high price mechanics to remove the turbo for maintenance, upgrades, etc. You can remove the turbo yourself! To remove the WRX turbo, follow these instructions. Be sure to start with a cool engine to prevent any accidental burns.

Drain coolant
Remove the top mount intercooler
Take off the down pipe
Disconnect coolant and oil banjos and feed lines
Remove the turbo!

How to remove WRX turbo in time lapse video

Step one is draining the coolant. Draining the coolant is rather easy, there is a plug under the motor that you can unscrew to drain the coolant. If you haven't changed the coolant in your Subaru for some time, take advantage now to change the coolant. Make sure you use proper coolant conditioners as suggested by Subaru otherwise the radiator and other parts will start to rust! Once the coolant is drained, proceed to step two.

Step two involved removing the top mount intercooler, which is another very simple step. There are two bolts, one on either side of the TMIC. Take those off, and then remove the fastener from the throttle body coupler and connection to the TMIC y-pipe. Once these are free, you will need to disconnect oil evap lines on either end of the TMIC. Once all lines are free, wiggle the TMIC free. Set it somewhere safe that it will not bend the soft fins.

Step number three is somewhat more difficult that the previous two steps. you will need to remove the down pipe in order to remove the turbo. Spray the bolts holding the down pipe to the exhaust side of the turbo with anti-seize. Use a hammer to tap the bolts first before just using arm muscle to torque them off. This will drastically reduce the chance of breaking off a bolt head. Once the visible down pipe bolts are removed, you will be able to wiggle it around but not yet completely remove it. The rest is easy, simply jack up the passenger side of the vehicle and place a jack stand for safety a couple of inches behind your side jacking point. Crawl under the car and disconnect your sensors, down pipe donut connection, and attachment bracket. The down pipe should be able to be maneuvered out of the vehicle. Once it is removed, set it aside.

Step four, disconnect the coolant and oil banjo's and feed lines. This is a pretty straight forward deal, no need for elaboration here.

Step five, remove the turbo! Pull it directly up and if everything is properly disconnected it will be an easy removal. Make sure you have removed all the bolts, there is one hidden under the down pipe that connects to the up pipe which is typically the unseen "last soldier standing strong".

Notes about turbo removal: Take a look at your up pipe and down pipe gaskets. This is the perfect opportunity to replace them. Unless they have been recently replaced within 10,000 miles, I'd suggest replacement. They are fairly cheap and everything is apart, so don't risk having an exhaust leak. Just do it! Also check the down pipe to TBE donut gasket. These typically wear down and leak badly. Enjoy!

Impreza WRX turbo upgrade

2009-09-28T17:10:00.004-04:00

When upgrading the turbo of your Subaru Impreza WRX, there are many decisions that must be made before the purchase. Research is your best friend, and you can start researching at Subaru forums like Nasioc.com, RS25.com, and DirtyImpreza.com just to name a few. There are several things to consider when purchasing a new turbo for your WRX listed below.

Considerations when purchasing a WRX turbo upgrade:

How much do you want to spend?
What is your power gain goals?
Do you know what supporting mods you will need?

How much do you want to spend?
Deciding on how much to spend is key when upgrading your turbo. For those of us who want to spend as little as possible, ebay turbo's offer a great deal of savings. Never mind the stereotypes you hear about "ebay turbo's are junk" because they aren't. This is propaganda put forth by mainstream companies to keep people buying their more expensive turbos. That being said, the high end and mainstream companies offer better turbos than what you can find on ebay. They offer better materials, faster bearings, and typically extended longevity. However, an ebay turbo is fine if you wish to save money and aren't concerned over minimal differences and branding.

Beyond the turbo expense there is supporting modification expense. To upgrade to a larger turbo, you must compensate for the additional air and power. Upgrading your fuel system is the most important supporting modification that always goes forgotten. Exhaust, intake, tuning, and additional emissions removal for US spec Impreza's is vital.

What are you power gain goals?
The stock Impreza WRX starts out with 227 horsepower at the crank. By appropriately upgrading the turbo and installing supporting mods, a safe daily driver can reach up to 400 awhp. The ultimate decision in your power gain goal is dependent on how much you want to spend and the extent of supporting modifications you wish to perform. It is safe to run 300 to 350 awhp with out internal engine modifications, stock transmission, and stock clutch. However if you abuse this power and race your vehicle every time you drive it; it will break down.

The typical WRX owner likes to upgrade to a VF series turbo, STi injectors, turbo back exhaust and up pipe, and larger top mount intercooler for gains anywhere from 250 to 300 awhp. The more avid enthusiast chooses to go with the larger TD05 or TD06 16g, 18g, or 20g turbo along with 750cc injectors, front mount intercooler kit, turbo back exhaust, TGV delete, tuning, and more. Any time you upgrade or change any air flow through your engine, it is wise to get a tune. Running your engine lean from too much air and not enough fuel is how our engines get blown up! When choosing your power gain goal, always try to maintain a safe and drivable setup. If you keep daily driving in mind, chances are that you will not blow your engine as long as your install the appropriate modifications.

Do you know the supporting mods for your turbo upgrade?
If you install any larger turbo, you will need to upgrade your injectors to a minimal STi 550cc flow rate, turbo back exhaust, up pipe, and a tune. For smaller turbo upgrades, you can get away with a stock intercooler. However, for larger turbo upgrades it is wise to go with a front mount intercooler setup along with intercooler water spray. This will reduce the chance of detonation if you plan on running boost higher than 17 to 18 psi. Pay special attention to the turbo map of the turbo you choose, and stay within the efficiency range. Check out the list of supporting mods below which is standard for all turbo upgrades.

Typical supporting mods:

High pressure fuel pump
High flow fuel rails
Braided fuel lines
Turbo back exhaust & up pipe
TGV delete w/ phenolic gasket spacers
Front mount intercooler system
Intercooler water spray
Manual or electronic boost control
Exhaust gas temperature gauge
Wide band air to fuel ratio gauge
Boost gauge

Note for big power folks: For larger turbo upgrades and higher psi looking to achieve 400+ awhp, consider rebuilding and strengthening the engine internals with forged pistons, rods, bearings, sleeved cylinder walls, and upgraded camshaft.

Summary of Impreza WRX turbo upgrade
When you upgrade your turbo, you must make sure you upgrade the supporting mods otherwise catastrophic failure is bound to occur. Seek the help of forums when deciding upon which turbo to use. There are pro's and cons to each turbo setup, and can greatly affect turbo lag, over all performance, and the longevity of your motor. Bolt on turbo kits are not all you need when upgrading your turbo. Which ever turbo you decide to upgrade to, do not make the common mistake of adding only a turbo and not following through with supporting modifications!

Check out the following videos of typical turbo upgrades for the Impreza WRX:
20g

18g

16g

vf34

WRX STi synthetic oil by Amsoil

2009-09-25T16:24:00.003-04:00

Finally choosing Amsoil 5w 30, the decision on which oil to use on the Impreza WRX and STi can was a tricky and lengthy evaluation. Price, longevity, and protection should all be considered. However, you do not want to cut corners when choosing an oil for your Subaru by using paraphin based oil. I have been running Mobile 1 synthetic 5w30 for about a year now with no problems, but I decided to upgrade and try out Amsoil. Amsoil in my opinion is one of the best oils that money can buy, even though it is slightly expensive. Royal Purple is great too, it's a really tough decision on which one to choose. After digging through countless posts, multiple forums, and tons of dead end threads; I decided to go with Amsoil because the majority of Subaru owners that seem mechanically inclined chose this oil.

Items needed to perform the Amsoil oil change:

(5) quarts full synthetic 5w30 for avid use
Absolute Efficiency synthetic oil filter ( part # EaO12)
Oil wrench
Oil drain and fill
1 inch open end wrench for drain plug w/ temp sensor

Amsoil full synthetic has been around for a long time and widely used in racing applications. Mobile one is too, but Royal Purple is somewhat new and doesn't have the heritage that I trust. I live in Florida and use my Subaru off road in the extreme heat of the summer. Amsoil is the best for this type of climate. I chose to go with 5w 30 because I want to make sure the oil moves quickly through my turbo to reduce the amount of build up due to high heat. The high heat properties of Amsoil also help prevent sludge build up and coking of the turbo bearings, thanks to their engineered design for high temperature application.

To order Amsoil, visit their website at http://www.amsoil.com

New Impreza WRX STi product 'roof handle covers'

2009-09-20T12:09:00.008-04:00

There is a new interior product for the Impreza WRX and STi that has been developed by http://subaru-offroad.blogspot.com and Affordable Covers and More! Roof handle covers with custom stitch easily Velcro attach to your roof handles for slick appearance and upgraded feel. Improve the performance of your entry and exit aid and extend the life of your plastic by protecting your roof handles with the new Affordable Covers and More custom product! Available in any fabric or color combination known to man, these easy little slip covers can attach and disconnect within seconds. Leaving no signs of installation, this is a great modification for any Subaru owner from the most hard core tuners, to lease owners.

Click on any images to see full size

Super strong Velcro attachment ensures the handles will not slip of fall off! They are thin enough to still make use of the factory hanger clip in the rear, but thick enough to add quality feeling and appearance to your interior. By using the custom contrast stitching, the Impreza WRX and STi roof handle covers can really make your car stand out. Reasonably priced for the set, this is one of the easiest and cheapest interior modifications on the market! To order, see the contact information below. All orders are custom built to your specifications and color combination requests. Any material and color combination you can think of is available. (Marine quality fabric shown here for off road use, stain proof!)

Roof handle covers and more can be ordered below orby contacting ACM
Affordable Covers and More "Contact us"
Website: http://www.affordablecoversandmore.com
Telephone: 727-455-7734
Fax: 352-345-4562
email: info@affordablecoversandmore.com

Custom WRX STi shift boot

2009-09-16T15:38:00.006-04:00

Adding a custom shift boot to the interior of your Subaru Impreza WRX or STi can really spice things up. A complimentary contrast of interior and exterior colors is the most common choice. By using extra tough marine materials with contrast stitch, you can add value to your interior while protecting it at the same time. I chose to go with Affordable Covers and More for my custom interior needs. They have a wide selection of materials and colors. Anything you can imagine, they can do it! Affordable Covers and More built this custom shift boot for me along with door inserts, and roof handle slips. To see the pictures on this post, simply click on any of them and they will open in a new window with full resolution.

Installation of custom WRX or STi shift boot
Installing this modification is probably the easiest thing I have done to my Subaru yet. Start by opening the console box, and then pull up on the plastic around your e-brake lever. It's held in by clips and is really easy to pop out. After you have the e-brake lever shroud loosened (no need to remove) simply pull up on the shift boot shroud releasing the tension clips as well. Remove your shift knob (all are different but stock just basically screws off). The shift boot shroud can be removed. Look under it and you will see some small, metal clips holding the shift boot to the console. Be very careful when you remove these! Try not to lose them, because they are hard to find. Auto parts stores typically don't sell them by individual sizes, only a "group" of various sizes resulting in wasted money.

Now that you have your old shift boot out, replace it with the Affordable Covers and More shift boot. Re-attach the rivet clips that hold the boot back on but you will need to position them so they don't attach via the old tracks. You will see when you remove the shift boot it leaves a scratch, or track in the plastic. Rotate the clip so it sets in fresh plastic, holding the boot down. Clip back in your shift boot shroud and e-brake shroud and your done!

Shift boots and more can be ordered below or by contacting ACM

Affordable Covers and More "Contact us"
Website: http://www.affordablecoversandmore.com
Telephone: 727-455-7734
Fax: 352-345-4562
email: info@affordablecoversandmore.com
Myspace

Impreza WRX STi oil, transmission, and differential drain plugs

2009-09-13T21:37:00.038-04:00

The most basic of all product needs for the Subaru Impreza WRX and STi are the drain plugs. Our vehicles have a wide selection of them! The most common to fail first is the seeping oil drain plug, most Subaru Impreza owners have realized that the small drips on the driveway come from a fouled oil drain plug or missing crush washers. We offer the finest quality and American made drain plugs for the transmission, oil pan, and rear differential. Don't just buy any old drain plug, buy a Dimple Black Hole magnetic drain plug. These are the most powerful magnetic drain plugs on the market!

Video content: example of Dimple Black Hole magnetic technology

Subaru already has a magnetic drain plug installed in the rear differential because they know the metal will slowly break off, and contaminate your fluids. The transmission and oil pan are no different! I use these magnetic plugs on my vehicle because when I'm out trailing, the last thing I want is to break down 35 miles from civilization due to a clogged oil line, blown rear differential, or trashed gears. By using the patented Dimple magnet technology, I'm extending the life of my oil and fluids way beyond averages. This additional safety for my vehicles internals gives me the reassurance I need when traversing the back trails of Florida. If you use your Subaru for track, off road, or just like extra protection; these magnetic drain plugs are for you!

These magnetic drain plugs are distributed and sold all over the world, now I can bring you this technology to the USA Subaru scene. Our drain plugs are better, because they all come with the "Dimple Black Hole" magnet and go beyond the duty of just drain plugs. These plugs act like another filter element preventing metal from building up in your fluids and causing premature damage.

Products offered "Magnetic drain plugs"
Click image for full size detail

Low profile magnetic oil drain plug

Low profile magnetic transmission drain plug
Only $49.95 shipped anywhere in USA
M26 x 1.5
Includes reusable copper washer
Works with both 5 and 6 speed transmissions
Works with automatics too!
Fits new CVT transmissions
Shipped in dust free casing
Inspected prior to shipping

Low profile magnetic rear differential drain/fill plugs
Only $29.95 shipped anywhere in USA
Includes pipe thread sealant
Perfect fit for OEM Subaru rear differential
Magnets in both fill and drain plugs for optimal protection
Fill and drain sold separately - to get both just add appropriate quantity
Shipped in dust free casing
Inspected prior to shipping

Bonus oil filter magnets for all oil filters
Only $29.95 shipped anywhere in USA
Six pack (6 qty.)
Special patented polarization method
Great for extra oil protection
Shipped in dust free casing
Inspected prior to shipping
Filter not included

Complete magnetic protection kit
Only $124.99 shipped anywhere in USA
Includes the following:
Transmission drain plug
Differential drain plugs for both fill and drain
Oil drain plug
Oil filter magnetic set of 6
Buy the set and save $49.76!

Summary
These magnetic drain plugs are so strong, you must be careful when handling them around electronics! These magnets are amazingly strong, and purpose built for the Subaru Impreza WRX and STi operating temperatures. They will not fall off, and are machined into the plug along with chemical adhesive to prevent loss of magnet. Take a look at the size of the magnet in other magnetic drain plugs, and you will see that the products offered here are far superior. You get what you pay for, and these magnetic drain plugs are no exception. They are slightly more expensive than the average plugs, but it's because they are exceptionally stronger than all available on the market. There is no other magnetic drain plugs on the market today that are as powerful as what is offered here!

Video content: about Dimple Black Hole technology

Impreza WRX STi HID fog light

2009-09-01T00:34:00.006-04:00

Installing HID H3 bulbs into the fog lights of an Impreza WRX or STi is a fairly easy task. For optimal use off road, you will want to pick a quality kit such as EliteHIDs.com which features slim ballast and quality bulbs, wires, and components. I chose to go with the 3000k by EliteHIDs.com because their series can handle my wild off road use. Also, the yellow light will illuminate the path with out attracting wild life. The yellow light emitted is not as attractive to deer, bears, dogs, etc. as white or blue light is which is commonly found on street vehicles. This can be very helpful while traversing off road paths at high speed! Also optimal for snow use, the yellow light helps to highlight the low spots in the road which helps you navigate with ease. There are some legal issues involved with HID kits, so make sure you use a DOT approved HID housing in combination with any HID kit just like I did to avoid any legal penalties.

3000k fog light HID kit by EliteHIDs.com

It is fairly easy to install the HID conversion kit by EliteHIDs.com and can be done in a couple of hours by any shade tree mechanic. To start the process correctly, make sure you have a nice dry area to work in that is free of debris. Also make sure you work on a surface that has a soft landing such as the "hillbilly creeper" foam pad just in case you accidentally drop your expensive bulbs. Follow the directions below for an easy quick installation that will last the extensive rigors of off road use in your Subaru Impreza WRX STi!

Items required for installation:

10mm ratchet with extension
Wire strippers and crimps
Wire end connectors (a.k.a. butt connectors)
Electrical tape
Plastic zip tie fasteners
Flat head screw driver
Drill or cutters

Instructions:

Remove the fog lights by taking out the three 10mm fasteners located around the fog light assembly. These can be removed from the front of the vehicle very easily! Good job Subaru on designing these with tuners in mind.
Cut and strip the black and white/black wires leading to the fog lights about an inch before they meet the plugs. Strip back about 1/4 of an inch. Leave yourself enough room to re-attach on the plug side should the need occur! Connect the power (white/black wire) and ground (black wire) to the HID ballast.
Take out the H3 bulbs from the fog lights by releasing the tension clips and set bulb assembly aside in a safe place. Retain the fog light seal cap!
Insert EliteHIDs.com H3 HID bulbs, line up the edges with prefitment points and use a flat head screw driver to press the tension clip back into place.
Cut the OEM fog light seal cap out just enough to fit the wires and connectors of the HID bulb through. This can be done using snips or a drill, your choice of course.
Reinstall the OEM cap with wires fed through, and then seal it off with electrical tape by wrapping around the cap's high edge points and then in a crisscross pattern seal the remaining hole. This will take about a foot or so of electrical tape per fog light unit. You want to make sure this is sealed to prevent moisture and dirt from penetrating the unit.
Connect the HID bulbs to the ballasts and seal connections with electrical tape. This is very important! However, do not put any electrical tape on the ballast as these get warm and will cause a stick gew to form. Only electrical tape actual wire connections only!
Reinstall fog lights and test! You will be amazed and it is a great feeling to know you have cool HID lights! Awesome!

Order your set of HID lights at http://www.eliteHIDs.com

Impreza WRX STi tail light mod

2009-08-24T04:55:00.008-04:00

There is a way to change the light pattern of your Subaru Impreza WRX or STi! This tail light mod eliminates the side marker of your running tail lamp. This is great for off road use only and is not legal on US roads! This mod increases safety while riding on private paths, especially at night. Animals are attracted by light, so eliminating the side sources of light from your vehicle is a great way to reduce the chance of being attacked, followed, or ran into by various critters in the forest. There is a lot of grief about off road enthusiasts damaging nature, we need to do our best to protect it. Combine this modification with WRC style head lights and you can cut down your side light emission by nearly 90% and save a critter's life.

Subaru Impreza WRX STi tail light mod video

The following mod will work on all Subaru Impreza models from 2002 and later. This mod simply changes the position of the light bulbs and only requires minimal effort to complete. Simply rotate the bulbs in your tail light! To access them, you may need to remove the carpet from your trunk. Simply undo the small plastic fasteners located around the perimeter of the carpet. This will release the carpet so you don't damage it! Do not just pull on the carpet, you will rip it and then it will sag. Once the tail lights are exposed, follow the next sequence:

On passenger side, move the bulb that is closest towards the center of the car to the position that is farthest from the center of the car.
Move the middle bulb to the closest position towards the center of the vehicle.
Move the farthest from center bulb to the middle.
Repeat for driver side.

As you can see in the movie above, side light emission is greatly reduced during normal operation, and is engaged during a brake like normal. Also by placing the bulb activate by brake towards the outside of the vehicle, you reduce the chances of a rear end collision because the light source appears larger from both tail lights. Save a critter and do not litter! Keep junk and garbage off the paths too. Thanks!

How to escape through trunk

2009-08-16T19:42:00.011-04:00

The Subaru Impreza WRX and STi are very special vehicles that are designed with race application in mind. There may be a time when you need to escape the vehicle through the trunk. It is possible to escape out of the cabin, through the seat passage, and out of the back of the trunk. I am 6'0 and weigh 165 lbs with large shoulders and I can fit through the trunk and escape my WRX in less than 30 seconds.

It's best to make a few practice runs before the real event should it ever occur. During practice, take your shoes off! They will damage the plush interior of your WRX if not removed. During the real event, feel free to leave your shoes on because there probably won't be much interior left. Follow the easy steps below on how to escape through your Subaru Impreza WRX trunk.

Subaru Impreza WRX trunk escape procedure

Turn off the engine, apply parking brake, and move the steering column up as high as possible.
Place right knee on drivers (USDM) side and left knee on passenger side, with your groin right over the middle console facing towards the trunk.
Reach into the back seat and pull the trunk access open completely.
Crawl into the back seat with the intention of laying in a fetal position with your right arm extended through the trunk access. Your knees should be resting together on the passenger rear seat, feet touching the back of the front passenger seat.
Extend your right hand into the trunk along with your head and pivot your left shoulder down so it will fit through the trunk access.
Use your right hand to pop open the trunk access and push the trunk to open position.
Use both hands and twist your hips while pulling from the bottom of the rear window trunk sill as a leverage point to pull your body the rest of the way through the access. You should turn to flat on your back as you pull your body through the trunk access.
Rest your right hip on the metal chassis on the drivers side of the trunk, just next to the donut. If you have a donut, rest your hip on the drivers side of the donut as you pivot your feet and legs towards the passenger side of the trunk. At the end of this step, you should be sitting on your bottom straight up, with your feet and knees bent.
Simply use the trunk ledge as a house and get out of the trunk feet first.

These nine steps can be accomplished in less than thirty seconds once practiced and perfected. Above you will find a video illustrating how easy it is to escape from the vehicle. This information can in some circumstances mean the difference between life and death, please take this seriously and practice in your spare time if you have any intentions of off road or racing applications for your vehicle. Good luck!

Impreza WRX STi door insert DIY kit install

2009-07-30T15:37:00.007-04:00

The Impreza WRX and STi door insert is a great kit to DIY install yourself with the Affordable Covers and More door card kit. This kit features a wide selection of fabric such as marine, velvet, and other various types of material. For my specific application, I chose to go with marine quality door inserts because they are dirt resistant which is great for us off road folks. The DIY install is really easy and can be done by anyone with a little patience and the following DIY video.

The kit is available for purchase at www.affordablecoversandmore.com or use PayPal below!

Impreza WRX STI door insert kit

Features unlimited material types
Pre-cut for ease of installation
Fast delivery
Lasts a very long time!
Great for accenting the bland Impreza interior

Pictures of installed example:

The quality of the door insert from Affordable Covers and More is second to none. I recommend them for all off road Subaru interior products! More off road products on the way! Check back often!

WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation

2009-07-25T22:32:00.035-04:00

Patent pending, the WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation bracket is a great way to gain performance and appearance. By removing the heat sources from around your intake by relocating the coolant reservoir to the firewall, you can effectively lower intake temperatures and increase power and gas mileage. The WRX and STi coolant reservoir is mounted to the intake manifold and sits right next to the intake, inlet, and turbo by Subaru to cut manufacturing costs. During vehicle assembly, it would take too long to mount the reservoir on the firewall. That's where our bracket saves the day!

Aluminum finish shown below

What does it do?
By performing the "WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation" mod you can dramatically reduce the amount of heat soak your intake experiences. The next time you drive your car, place your hand near the coolant reservoir. It's hot! Because you will transfer heat from the coolant to the chassis instead of to the intake manifold, this also reduces coolant temperature levels while simultaneously cleaning up the appearance of your engine bay by moving the ugly coolant reservoir to the passenger firewall. The reservoir is still mounted at the highest point of the cooling system, allowing the coolant to still effectively burp. Placing the reservoir on the firewall also makes use of fresh air entering the hood scoop, improving cooling function of the system.

About the relocation bracket
The WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation bracket is designed by avid Subaru off road enthusiast Michael Berenis and 45 year General Motors tool and die veteran Terry Nellis. Currently being mass produced by American Super Car Inc., two time SEMA "GM best design" winner so you can trust the quality. Built 100% in AMERICA!!! It has been tested for more than 2,000 miles off road in the extreme heat of Florida and been proven to drop the intake temperature via probe between intercooler and throttle body by up to eight degrees. It can take the bumps and jumps of sand paths as well! No leaks, no pressure loss, and ability to withstand severe g-forces produced during off road jumps, bumps, holes... and getting stuck! It's so strong and sturdy, you can shake the car by placing your hand on the reservoir. After you install it, you can test to see if its working by placing your hand on the chassis around the bracket. You'll feel the heat dissipating into the chassis instead of your intake manifold.

Features:

Fits all 2002+ Impreza's (WRX and STi)
Fits both JDM and USDM plastic and aluminum reservoirs
Aircraft grade 4mm thick aluminum
Transfers heat from the reservoir to the chassis
Lowers coolant & intake temperatures
Roof scoop feeds cool air to coolant reservoir with free chimney mod
All edges smooth
Fits perfectly
Optional finish = raw aluminum or sand blasted
Extremely light weight
Mounts coolant reservoir to the firewall
When properly mounted, does not rub brake lines!
5 year warranty: If the item breaks, we'll replace it for free or exchange it for a new one; your choice! All we ask is that you assume shipping costs.

What's included:

(2)-two self tapping fasteners
(2)-coolant reservoir mounting bolts
(1)-coolant reservoir relocation aluminum bracket
Email and telephone support
Installation documentation below!

Tools needed for installation:

Power drill
Allen wrench set
Snips
Metric socket set
Black marker
Carpenter's level

Note: You will need to purchase additional coolant hose, hose clamps, and coolant line extension fittings to complete the installation. These items are not included to save on shipping costs. Free horn relocation mod required for installation, see DIY here.

WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation bracket
Shipping included in below prices, choose your finish (sand blasted or aluminum)

Customer service and return policy!

Customer service: For questions or technical help installing, email mberenis@gmail.com or call/ txt 352-678-7373 anytime for help. If I do not answer (rare), leave a message and I will get back with you within 24 hours at the latest. I pride myself on customer care and service.

Return policy: You must contact customer service first to get a return number. If you are not happy for any reason, return the bracket within 30 days of purchase with your RN clearly labeled and I will refund your money through PayPal once the product has arrived. 5 year warranty covers all functions of the bracket. If the functions of the bracket fail, return it for a full refund of $39.99 or exchange it for a new bracket. Customer is responsible for shipping costs for warranty and return claims.

WRX STi coolant reservoir relocation bracket
Sand blasted and raw aluminum finish shown below

How to install coolant reservoir relocation mod

This modification is very easy to do and takes only an hour or two depending on your skill level. Before you do anything, you will need to remove or relocate the stock passenger side horn. A good place is in the grill. See free horn relocation mod here. Next, drain the coolant from your system just enough to remove the coolant out of the upper reservoir you'll be moving. You can do this by a using a siphon quite easily. (See service manual) Then remove the bolts holding the coolant reservoir to the intake manifold. Once you have the bolts removed, disconnect the coolant reservoir lines.

Now that your coolant reservoir is free from the vehicle, apply the foot peg. A foot peg helps stabilize the reservoir on your cruise control housing. If you do not have cruise control it is okay. The reservoir will mount securely to the vehicle with or with out this housing. If you do have the housing, place a rubber foot peg (buy at auto store) on the lower attachment point of the reservoir. Next you will want to attach the bracket to the coolant reservoir for firewall leveling. The coolant reservoir needs to be level, so use a level and ensure it's right. Once you find the right level, mark the upper right and left corners on the chassis. Next you will need to disconnect the bracket from the coolant reservoir.

Now that the bracket is free and you have marked the level location, you'll need to have someone help you hold the bracket in place as you drill the self tapping screws into your firewall. Once you have the bracket attached to the firewall, then attach the reservoir to the already mounted bracket. Once the reservoir is attached to the firewall, check it again with a level to make sure it's right.

Finally, you will need to re-attach the hoses by using a brass extension piece you can pick up at the auto store along with a couple extra feet of coolant line. Once it is hooked up and routed to your liking, fill it back up with coolant, and burp the coolant system. Burping the coolant system is easy, simply fill up the reservoir and cycling the vehicle on and off until no more burping occurs. For additional prevention against heat soak, wrap the coolant lines in exhaust wrap. Make sure you use plastic wire fasteners (wire ties) to keep loose hose away from the turbo and tied to the power steering rail. To read more about burping, see service manual.

Once it is installed, it is so secure you should be able to grab it and move the entire car back and forth slightly with no slop or clanking. The unit does not bounce around while being driven hard, nor does it make noise. It also clears upper sway bars, and allows the hood to close just fine. It's a perfect fit!

Impreza WRX STi exhaust systems

2009-07-20T06:41:00.012-04:00

The Subaru Impreza WRX exhaust system can be setup many different ways. Starting with the headers, there is three exhaust manifold types to chose from. Equal length headers create more power but remove the classic "boxer" sound to something similar to a Honda. Unequal length headers are similar to factory but feature a slightly larger diameter pipe that the exhaust heads can be port matched to. Unequal length headers increase performance and retain the classic boxer rumble. The third type of header is just leaving the OEM headers installed. They are only slightly smaller than aftermarket headers and retain the boxer rumble most love! Instead of replacing them, try a port and polish!

Video content: WRX equal length headers

Video content: WRX unequal length headers

As you can see in the above videos there is a huge difference between equal and unequal length headers!

Up pipe, downpipe, and beyond!
Beyond headers, there is a couple of other choices you can make when designing your WRX exhaust. Sound, spool time, and flow rate are all determining factors when choosing a WRX exhaust. Each part of the exhaust system can be upgraded but largely depends on the type of turbo you are using.

Up pipe
When choosing a proper up pipe, you must decide to use either a single scroll or twin scroll turbo setup. The WRX comes stock with single scroll which is the standard up pipe featuring only one exhaust tube. Twin scroll features two exhaust tubes which keep the exhaust from each head separate until they reach the turbo housing. By keeping the pressure separate it allows for a smooth flow rate decreasing turbo lag dramatically. This works great for larger turbo upgrades but isn't necessary for the stock turbos. A stock turbo WRX exhaust system works great with single scroll up pipes!

Downpipe
Next a downpipe is typically used to decrease boost lag and allow for an increase flow of exhaust gas. There is two types of down pipes. One type features a separate tube for the waste gate escape gases and the other does not. The cheaper downpipe with out the divorced waste gate pipe does not flow as well as it's more expensive counterpart. Also a difference in sound can be noticed between the two. Avid enthusiasts always prefer either divorced waste gate or external waste gates mounted on the up pipe for maximum gains and sound.

Mid pipe
After the down pipe is the mid pipe. This is where a wide band gauge sensor should be installed, at the 10-11 o'clock position. This position prevents moisture from collecting on the sensor causing reading errors. The mid pipe can be purchased with the down pipe or separately depending on which down pipe you choose. Mid pipes are essential to continuing the flow rate to the cat back system. Additionally, all header wrap should stop just before the mid pipe as the down pipe turns towards the rear of the vehicle to maximize flow rate by means of thermal suction.

TurboXS Mid pipe

Baffle
From the factory just past the mid pipe heading toward the back of the car exists a sound baffle. Depending on your flavor, you can leave the baffle installed or remove it. Leaving the baffle installed creates a raspy sound that some enthusiasts enjoy. Others believe it is too restrictive and should be removed for the added gains.

Cat back, muffler, tip
From the catalytic converter towards the rear exists the typical cat back exhaust system. This includes the mid pipe, muffler, and tip. The most common cat back exhaust system uses a fireball type muffler and tip. This type of exhaust sounds excellent, deep, and allows maximum air flow. Most WRX exhaust systems use this type of setup, however it is possible to construct your own cat back exhaust out of pipe, muffler of your choice, and tip. A flowmaster 40 series is with oval tip is perfect to retain that stock look with a deep sound.

Straight pipes and cut out WRX exhaust

It is possible to run straight pipes or a cut out exhaust on your WRX. This type of setup will yield maximum performance gains as well as be extremely loud. This type of setup can be so loud that some consider it an annoyance. If you feel you might be annoyed by a constant drone of EJ20/EJ25 symphony, an electric cut out is perfect for you! The ability to control between mild and wild is a great choice for most avid performance enthusiasts.

Electronic exhaust cut out

Warning! Using a straight pipe or cut out exhaust is illegal in the United States due to emissions laws. Also, removing any of the catalytic converters is illegal too! Fire can also shoot out of the exhaust if it is completely free flowing. Flames have been reported up to 10 feet out the back of a free flowing WRX exhaust system! A great recipe for flammage is atmospheric blow off valve + free flowing exhaust = afterfire.

Video content: WRX afterfire

Additional exhaust improvements!
Using exhaust wrap along with a free flowing exhaust can take advantage of thermal suction properties. Heat seeks cold, so naturally insulating the exhaust leaves only one way to find the cool air; out the back! Exhaust wrap will also increase turbo sound! No exhaust system is complete until the headers, mid pipe, up pipe, and down pipe are wrapped. Additionally, silicone and ceramic coatings can be applied for additional appearance and performance gains.

Summary
Overall the WRX exhaust is a great way to modify your Impreza. Performance and sound can both be improved by modifying the exhaust. The health of your engine will also improve as the gas is not forced to be trapped within the system. This allowance of free flowing exhaust reduces overall vehicle temperatures too!

WRX STi horn mods

2009-07-19T21:10:00.011-04:00

WRX STI horn mods
The Impreza WRX and STi for USDM come with a quiet horn setup contrary to JDM versions. This horn setup from Subaru lowers the decibel amount to a reasonable limit so the vehicle can be sold in the United States. However, for off road use it is optimal to have the loudest horn setup as possible! A loud horn can ward off animals and signal an urgent message. By using the stock horns but mounted in a different place, it is possible to have a much louder WRX horn system. Below you will find a few WRX sti horn mods that will make your horn much louder! A breakdown of the Subaru horn wiring system can be found in the free service manuals for download here.

Relocate strut bar horn
The strut bar horn is on the passenger side and hangs around just above the turbo. It's attached to the passenger strut tower by a bracket that features two 12 mm nuts. Remove these nuts and disconnect the horn from the system. Once the horn is removed, it can be mounted behind the grill on the passenger side. Extend the wiring using a similar gauge extension wire and make sure to use either solder or end connectors. There is a bolt in the top left corner that is 10mm and inserts into the chassis pointing towards the rear of the car. This is your mount location.

Strut bar horn relocated:

Adjust OEM grill horns for best sound
The OEM horns come tucked down into the bumper. Simply loosen the mounting bolts for the center horn enough so you can pivot the horn bracket so that the horn can be seen in the grill area. For best sound you want the horns visible in the grill as seen below. The second horn should be relocated in the same spot as the strut bar horn, but on the driver's side.

Center horn relocated:

Second horn relocated:

Note about installation: I have auxiliary light brackets installed which actually helps produce more sound because of the flat metal located behind each horn. It is possible to do this mod with or without auxiliary light brackets as the horns attach to the chassis. Additionally, the horn projects into the back of my Hella which deflects sound in all directions amplifying even more. The auxiliary light bracket and horn relocation package is awesome! Comparative video coming soon!

Subaru Off Road forum

2009-07-16T21:22:00.007-04:00

Coming soon! Features news, videos, photos, discussion, and more about all things related to Subaru! Also features an Examiner news thread with various news information submitted by Examiners from around the country. Stay current on products by visiting the Subaru Off Road forum vendors! Do you have a Subaru related business? List it for free on Subaru Off Road forum!

Off road forum will feature:

Easy one step registration
News
General discussion
Technical and DIY for all Subaru models
Sell your Subaru
Buy used Subaru
Meets
Vendor forums
Latest Subaru info
Off topic "dirty road"
Subaru videos
Subaru photos

The forums are a way for users to communicate with each other about various topics listed above. Arrange meets, schedule events, and chat with other enthusiasts from around the world!

Visit the Subaru Off Road forum soon!

WRX coolant reservoir sandblasting service

2009-07-10T10:47:00.006-04:00

If you are the owner of a 2.0 liter Subaru engine please take a look under your hood and check if your coolant reservoir lid is painted black. If it is painted black, you must remove the paint from underside of the lid that is exposed to coolant. There is a problem with the coolant reservoir (located near the turbo) lid paint coming loose and clogging the coolant system. This clog results in extreme heat that cracks the block and leads to failure of engine, turbos, etc.

Vehicles affected by coolant lid:

2001-2003 Subaru Impreza WRX / STi

How to fix painted coolant lid problem!
There is an easy fix to this, just remove the reservoir lid and use a sandblaster to remove all of the black paint from the lid and tube ports. This paint is junk and will come loose. My 2002 wrx had 65,000 miles and was just starting to come apart. Had I waited, I would have had clogged coolant lines and probably fried my motor.

No access to a sandblaster? I can do it for you, just like the one above! Send it to me and I'll perform the WRX coolant reservoir sandblasting service starting at $39.99 which includes shipping back to you! Save your engine by fixing the only mistake Subaru made!

WRX coolant reservoir sandblasting service

Professional clean environment sandblasting
Complete, partial, or complete sandblasting with clear on top!
Send in your reservoir lid
Return shipping included in price!
Fast, easy, cheap!
Sand blasting completely cleans the inside of coolant line nipples!

WRX turbo heat shield plans

2009-07-10T07:28:00.003-04:00

The follow schematics are WRX turbo heat shield plans that may require slight modification to fit your car. This is not the plans used in our proprietary 'self cooling turbo heat shield' that has been sold to an anonymous buyer. You can construct your own DIY turbo heat shield according to the following plans by purchasing a 24" x 24" piece of sheet metal and tracing a card board cut out of the following diagram.

Right click, view image. Save image, print.

Subaru Impreza WRX STi forums and best threads

2009-07-10T07:13:00.004-04:00

Some of the best forums on the internet are automotive enthusiast websites! Ample amounts of information on how to do a variety of tasks, mods, performance part install, etc can all be found on the common auto forum. Subaru is a friendly group, and of course there is tons of forums! Subaru actually means 'unite' but there is still some mockery and tom foolery that goes on. Some forums are heavily moderated while others are the jungle. Both types of forums offer unique experience and data. Try using some of the forums below to find other Subaru enthusiasts on the internet!

WRX and STi forums

WRX and STI best threads

Turbo compression maps

2009-07-10T07:01:00.003-04:00

If you are doing any modifications or tuning to your car you might need to know about the turbo compression maps. Reading the compression map is easy! There is two axis, one labled air flow rate and the other is pressure ratio. Simply line up X & Y to find the ideal data! Reading compression maps is easy and applying the information into your tune is suggested. Peak flow rates and optimal operating zones are identified in the turbo compression maps below! If you do not know what you are doing, leave it up to the professionals. A turbo is an fragile piece of equipment similar to jet engine technology and should not be tampered with! Proceed with caution!

Turbo compression maps

The above turbo's are common to the Subar Impreza WRX. Locate your turbo by looking on the casing. Identification numbers, make, and model should all be present!

WRX pill mod

2009-07-10T06:50:00.004-04:00

Stock wrx want a quick cheap manual boost controller for under $5.00? For safe operation, using the 'wrx pill mod' you'll need to get a boost gauge. The pill mod is the wild west of modifying your WRX and anything can happen. Proceed with caution!

WRX pill mod

$0.79 3/16" Restrictor pill

Instructions: Splice the turbo vac line with the Y piece and run the on/off valve to a new 3/16" restrictor pill and then back into the stock line. Plenty of people have done this safely but I would just buy the Perrin manual boost controller, get a 3gsucks ECU map tune, and call it a day. Avoid this mod if at all possible! ICK!

Oil tips for Subaru Impreza WRX and STi

2009-07-10T06:44:00.002-04:00

What is the best oil for Subaru Impreza WRX and STi? If you can not attain Subaru authentic fluids, Amsoil, Royal Purple and Mobile full synthetics are the next best thing. A turbo charged Subaru needs proper oil types to prevent coking of turbo bearings under hot operation. A modified or tuned vehicle is subject to more intense heat and therefore more coking. Special blend race oil may be needed for higher end race motors.

Oil tips for Subaru Impreza WRX and STi

10w-30 Full Synthetic is for 10,000 + Engines during warmer seasons.

5w-30 Full Synthetic is for 10,000+ Engines during colder seasons.

Best oil for Subaru Impreza WRX: Amsoil Full Synthetic 0w-10w 30 dependent on application

0w30 is good for race application for larger turbos and engine builds
5w30 is good for stock modified and avid use during warm/cool season
10w30 is good for stock

Do not use synthetic oil until 10,000 miles according to Subaru.

Tip: Got valve gasket seepage (not leak) after using synthetic for the first time? The ultra-penetrating formula of Mobile 1 and other synthetics will cause this to occur. You can replace your gaskets, change your oil type, or use some kind of silicon sealant on the outside of the valve cover. Or, just let it drip and stink on your manifold. This is the most common cause of burning oil coming from engine bay!

Are blow off valves 'bov' bad?

2009-07-10T06:40:00.004-04:00

100% atmospheric release blow off valves cause your engine to run rich for the split second you let off the throttle and the BOV is releasing pressure. It runs rich because the engine is expecting the blow off air to be returned through the turbo inlet hose and into the air intake.

This rich condition causes "AfterFire" and in exhaust systems with no catalytic converters a flame can be seen to come out of the exhaust pipes anywhere from 2" to 2 feet depending on temperature of the exhaust pipes and how rich your car gets.

A blow off valve installed on a car with modified exhaust and intake is OK. To be completely safe, you'll need an ECU tune if you do not want to upgrade to a front mount intercooler and Perrin blow through boost tube. I have mine tuned by Tampa's best street tuner, 3gsucks. Otherwise, a blow off valve installed on a stock wrx is BAD. The afterfire will have nowhere to go due the catalytic converters and will expand in your turbo rather than out your pipe to produce the ever wanted "pop" from horizontally opposed turbo engines.

This benefits off road users because it allows the turbo to stay spinning longer by releasing the pressure out of the system rather than back into it. This cut's down on boost time and turbo lag. Combine this with a turbo inlet, MAF hose, K&N, UP pipe and Down Pipe, Intercooler hoses, you will see a dramatic reduction in spool time. The stock TD04 has the best spool time out of most turbo's because its small enough to spin fast, but big enough to spin huge volumes of air. 360 CFM to be exact.

Subaru Impreza WRX DIY FAQ database list

2009-07-10T06:26:00.005-04:00

Below you will find a list of DIY, FAQ, and 'how to' guides. This is useful information that I have found while I scoured the web as a Subaru owner. Anything I found interesting or helpful I added to the database. Everything you can imagine is in the following list! If it's not covered here, feel free to add it to the comments. I'll go through the comments and keep building the list. For now, check out what I've found so far!

Subaru Impreza WRX DIY database list

Subaru Impreza 3" lift (Forester strut swap)

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f9/t109573-forester-struts-impreza-gc8.html

Burp Engine Coolant

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/126354-diy-engine-coolant-change.html

Lateral Link Bushing Swap

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4567

Black headlights:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749614

VHT Niteshades:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826036

Fog light trim:
Part 1: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7&page=1&pp=25
Part 2: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537424

LED light replacment:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=753499

Improved lighting for bad weather conditions:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=310838

Sliver signal bulbs:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...7&highlight=diy

Third brake light -> WRX logo:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=DIY

Crack-proof front lip:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=395394

Custom front lip (more advanced):

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=583184

Ver.1 SG STI grill:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449486

Custom wing raisers:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=DIY

Wheel painting:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=756477

Painted side skirts:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=808744

Mud flaps:

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50

JDM rally roof vent:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=969272

Super loud italian horn:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...344#post8163344

Intercooler screen (post #17):

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=diy

Intercooler sprayer:

http://wrx.spankaveli.com/icspray.pdf

Trunk tensioner install:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...73#post8209873

Silencer Delete:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...6#post10460386

Fluid caps yellow -> red:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=diy

Painted tow hook:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=815746

LED dome and map lights:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676466

JDM red hazard button:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=737494

Red IC sprayer button:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=glue+bulb

Center vent gauge:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352814

MY05 Stock head removal:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839957

Shift knob emblem:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8#post10959378

Shift pattern decal:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=diy

Shifter and e-brake restitching:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812780

05 STI steering wheel re-paint:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=812778

S2000 push-start button:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=813061

Armrest Extension:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=817065

Grounding mod:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674153

Improved waste-gate solenoid:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178352

Turbo heat shield:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ld+sheet+metal

USDM STI Intercooler install:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952204

Key remod fob:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&highlight=diy

Adjustable headrest:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724009

Porsche style gauge cluster:

04-05 Window LED color change:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810059

Subaru Impreza WRX FAQ database list

Subaru Impreza WRX STi exterior parts

2009-07-10T06:16:00.005-04:00

Exterior parts for the Subaru Impreza WRX and STi are readily available. Carbon fiber parts for everything exterior except the chassis is available below. Roof, fenders, hoods, trunks, etc. By using carbon fiber parts on your Subaru Impreza WRX and STi it eliminates weight and improves performance by reducing track times. Carbon fiber combined with a roll cage can increase the cars safety as well.

Subaru Impreza WRX and STi exterior parts

Do you want your link here? Contact mberenis@gmail.com

Subaru Impreza WRX STi OEM parts

2009-07-10T06:05:00.006-04:00

Low price and high quality OEM parts are needed to keep our Subaru's healthy. Of course aftermarket is alright to use sometimes, but for off road conditions it's best to use OEM when possible. Using OEM oil, coolant, conditioners, and more all help prolong the life of your Subaru.

The Subaru is an advanced machine with awesome aircraft inspired heritage. There are also ways to upgrade the performance and power of your Subaru by swapping and upgrading turbos, suspension, intercoolers, heads, rods, engine blocks, and transmissions. Common swaps occur between STi and WRX, Forester and WRX/STi, Legacy and Forest, Outback and STi, etc. Depending if the owner wants either off road or street and track determines the type of OEM part swapping they perform. The best used OEM part supply is LKQ and the best new OEM supply is Subaru Parts Warehouse.

Subaru Impreza WRX and STi OEM parts

Do you want your link here? Contact mberenis@gmail.com

Subaru Impreza WRX STi service manual

2009-07-10T05:45:00.010-04:00

Trying to find the right method for installing a certain part? It can be tricky if you don't use the service manual. If you need torque values, try looking in the service manual. During any modification you want to make sure you use the service manual for reference. Everything is covered in these books! It's amazing to see how much information is really there. All data was hosted on third party websites that I found, here is the research data for educational purposes only:

Subaru Impreza WRX STi performance parts

2009-07-10T05:33:00.005-04:00

Below is a list of performance part suppliers that carry Subaru Impreza WRX and STi performance products. Some of the more interesting parts with an off road twist is the 1" Impreza lift kit, phenolic spacers, and Primitive Racing skid plates. Protection keeping cool is the ideal mods for any Impreza looking to gain off road performance. Check out the list below for the best performance parts!

Do you want your website listed here? Contact mberenis@gmail.com

Easy WRX mod

2009-07-09T01:54:00.030-04:00

An easy WRX mod is replacing "air by-pass hose B" with five inches of the aircraft quality collapsing fuel EVAP line:

Buy for only $2.99 per inch below!
6mm ID x 9.5mm OD x 1.5mm wall
Free shipping to continental USA
Install in less than 30 seconds!
International orders please contact us below!

Will it fit on my vehicle?
Yes! This product works on all vehicles, not just Subaru's. This product was tested and installed on the 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX but fits all vehicles that have a fuel evaporation purge system. These are mandated by USA emission laws, so basically all vehicles can use the collapsing fuel EVAP hose. Using the collapsing EVAP hose will not cause check engine lights or void emissions! Other vehicles than the 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX may require different size hose please verify your inner diameter, outer diameter and length before ordering.

How much should I order?
Measure how long the hose is that runs from your fuel evap purge solenoid to the intake. Typically under twelve inches is needed. The Subaru Impreza WRX used five inches of collapsing fuel EVAP line.

More information...
The collapsing fuel EVAP line can be installed on the 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX in under 30 seconds! It also fits all vehicles with a fuel evaporation return system! By swapping out "air by-pass hose B" with a collapsing fuel EVAP line you can immediately eliminate the heptane insoluble portion of the evaporation residue of motor gasoline from sticking to your intake tract while it's hot at wide open throttle. **Heptane is a zero octane gas! Heptane is not compression friendly and ignites under minimal compression. The collapsing fuel evap hose expands and contracts to open and shut the return of fuel evaporation from the purge solenoid. Under heavy pressure from wide open throttle and turbo boost, the line seals shut eliminating heptane purge. When the car is at idle or easy daily driving, the line remains open allowing regular fuel EVAP purge functions to continue so the vehicle will meet emissions.

There is no tuning required and no check engine light will occur if you properly install the line. This is the first of many aircraft mods! I have discovered several aircraft parts can be easily interchanged with the EJ20, EJ25 series engines. The practice of removing heptane from a turbine is based on modern jet engine technology.

Science behind collapsing fuel EVAP line
As the intake heats up, it allows the heptane molecules to become sticky and create filth along the inner workings of your intake. *Heptane, part of the methyl group, is an "**aromatic hydrocarbon" and test's have proven 10 to 30 times increased of oil sludge as a result of AH presence. [Sources: *All-Union Scientific-Research Institute for Petroleum Processing
**Aromatic hydrocarbon - Wikipedia ]

Aircraft Quality Collapsing Fuel EVAP line

Free shipping to continental USA
Note: All orders cut to qty. length, not one inch segments.
Unlimited supply all lengths welcome!

$2.99 per inch
6mm ID x 9.5mm OD x 1.5mm wall

Refunds will not be issued for incorrect sized hose! Please measure how much you need and verify dimensions before ordering. By ordering you agree to these terms!

Impreza WRX STi custom interior

2009-07-03T19:39:00.015-04:00

Click image to see full size

Do you spend hours cleaning your interior after taking your Subaru off road? Affordable Covers & More has joined up with http://subaru-offroad.blogspot.com to make a line of custom interior products for the Impreza WRX & STi that feature off road fabric and materials that is dirt, stain, and water proof. A full line of off road compliant Subaru Impreza WRX products is currently being developed. See our current line of products below!

Impreza WRX STi custom interior products:

Custom shift boots
Shift boot stitching
Shift knob upholstery
Side mirror covers
Emergency brake boots
Emergency brake boot stitching
Custom roof handles
Door inserts
Trunk mats
Off road & rally friendly floor mats
Center console covers
Rear window shelf covers
Steering wheel covers
Plus more!

BEFORE
AFTER

About our off road interior products:
All products will be designed and built custom by Affordable Covers & More with the help of http://subaru-offroad.blogspot.com's experience of getting Subaru's dirty. All products will be designed to repel dirt, withstand the stress of time, and be very light weight while at the same time adding some flavor to the stock Subaru interior. Several products are easy to install and can be done by anyone in under 15 minutes! Simple slips, covers, boots, etc is a great way to protect your Subaru off road from the elements such as rain, mud, snow, sand, salt, grease, and other.

Who is Affordable Covers & More?
Building custom interior products for automotive, marine, and commercial Affordable Covers & More is quickly becoming the standard for custom upholstery. Starting in Chattanooga, TN and very well known through out the state, this family owned and operated business knows upholstery. Origins in upholstery go back to playing an intricate role in Ford's interior design team for the 1964 Mustang! Affordable Covers and More is known for quality products and excellent price. Http://subaru-offroad.blogspot.com is proud to offer their services to our patrons! Check back often, products and prices coming soon!

Subaru Impreza WRX STi auxiliary light brackets

2009-06-30T22:20:00.022-04:00

Do you want to mount auxiliary lights on your Subaru Impreza? There is a cheap alternative to expensive light bars by using radiator mounted auxiliary light brackets! These light weight auxiliary beam brackets are made from 3/16"x1.5" stainless steel and are secured to the vehicle in four points! Will not bounce around! Plus, the expensive lights are kept high off the ground unlike the lower light bar style mounts. Each bracket is custom made to order so allow 3-5 days to be shipped. Fits only 2002-2003 models.

Auxiliary light bracket video!

Brackets include:

Two radiator mount style brackets
Radiator mount bolts, grill ties, and rubber light feet included!
Attaches at four points: Radiator, radiator corner, bumper behind grill, front top bumper surface.
Can be removed with out signs of damage!
Includes detailed instructions!
Instructional online video coming soon!
Everything you need to install auxiliary lights on your Subaru!
Fits 2002-2003 Subaru Impreza WRX & STi
May fit other model Subaru Impreza's with slight modification!

Subaru Impreza WRX check engine light codes CEL codes

2009-06-29T04:24:00.008-04:00

Having problems with your Subaru Impreza WRX? Check out these WRX CEL codes for the Subaru Impreza WRX! Print this out, bookmark it, etc. This information is your best friend when owning and/or modifying a Subaru Impreza WRX. Also, try resetting the ECU when one of these little devils pops up.

Tip for troubleshooting 'check engine' light:
To reset the ECU, disconnect the negative battery terminal and press the brake or turn on the dome light for 3 seconds. Then, reconnect the negative battery terminal and walla- instant ECU reset. If the check engine light reoccurs after reseting the ECU, there is something wrong and you should proceed further. Always try resetting the ECU!

Subaru Impreza WRX CEL codes (grouped)

P0031 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor heater circuit low input
P0032 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor heater circuit high input
P0037 Rear oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction
P0038 Rear oxygen sensor heater circuit high input

P0065 Air assist injector solenoid valve malfunction
P0066 Air assist injector solenoid valve circuit low input
P0067 Air assist injector solenoid valve circuit high input

P0101 Mass air flow sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input
P0103 Mass air flow sensor circuit high input
P0106 Pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P0107 Pressure sensor circuit low input
P0108 Pressure sensor circuit high input

P0111 Intake air temperature sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0112 Intake air temperature sensor circuit low input
P0113 Intake air temperature sensor circuit high input

P0117 Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit low input
P0118 Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit high input

P0121 Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0122 Throttle position sensor circuit low input
P0123 Throttle position sensor circuit high input

P0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control

P0128 Thermostat malfunction

P0130 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor circuit range/performance problem (lean)
P0131 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P0132 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)
P0133 Front oxygen (Air:fuel) sensor circuit slow response

P0136 Rear oxygen sensor circuit malfunction

P0139 Rear oxygen sensor circuit slow response

P0171 Fuel trim malfunction (Air:fuel too lean)
P0172 Fuel trim malfunction (Air:fuel too rich)

P0181 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit range/performance problem
P0182 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit low input
P0183 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit high input

P0244 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (high input)
P0245 Wastegate control solenoid valve circuit low input
P0246 Wastegate control solenoid valve circuit high input

P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected

P0327 Knock sensor circuit low input
P0328 Knock sensor circuit high input

P0335 Crankshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem

P0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0341 Camshaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem

P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold

P0442 Evaporative emission control system malfunction

P0444 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve circuit low input
P0445 Evaporative emission control system purge control valve circuit high input

P0447 Evaporative emission control system vent control low input
P0448 Evaporative emission control system vent control high input

P0451 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor range/performance problem
P0452 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor low input
P0453 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor high input

P0456 Evaporative emission control system malfunction
P0457 Evaporative emission control system leak detected (fuel cap loose/off)

P0461 Fuel level sensor circuit range/performance problem
P0462 Fuel level sensor circuit low input
P0463 Fuel level sensor circuit high input
P0464 Fuel level sensor intermittent input

P0480 Cooling fan relay 1 circuit low input

P0483 Cooling fan function problem

P0500 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction

P0506 Idle control system RPM lower than expected
P0507 Idle control system RPM higher than expected
P0508 Idle control system circuit low input
P0509 Idle control system circuit high input

P0512 Starter switch circuit high input

P0545 Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit low input
P0546 Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit high input

P0604 Internal control module memory check sum error

P0703 Brake switch input malfunction

P0705 Transmission range sensor circuit malfunction

P0710 Transmission fluid temperature sensor circuit malfunction

P0715 Torque converter turbine speed sensor circuit malfunction

P0720 Output speed sensor (vehicle speed sensor 2) circuit malfunction

P0725 Engine speed input circuit malfunction

P0731 Gear 1 incorrect ratio
P0732 Gear 2 incorrect ratio
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect ratio
P0734 Gear 4 incorrect ratio

P0741 Torque converter clutch system malfunction

P0743 Torque converter clutch system (Lock-up duty solenoid) electrical

P0748 Pressure control solenoid (Line pressure duty solenoid) electrical

P0753 Shift solenoid A (Shift solenoid 1) electrical

P0758 Shift solenoid B (Shift solenoid 2) electrical

P0778 2-4 brake pressure control solenoid valve (2-4 brake duty solenoid) circuit malfunction

P0785 2-4 brake timing control solenoid valve (2-4 brake timing solenoid) circuit malfunction

P1086 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit low input
P1087 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit high input
P1088 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit low input
P1089 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) position sensor circuit high input
P1090 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1091 Tumble generator valve #1 (RH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1092 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck open)
P1093 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) malfunction (stuck close)
P1094 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (open circuit)
P1095 Tumble generator valve circuit #1 (over current)
P1096 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (open circuit)
P1097 Tumble generator valve circuit #2 (over current)

P1110 Atmospheric pressure sensor low input
P1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor high input
P1112 Atmospheric pressure sensor range/performance problem

P1130 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (open circuit)
P1131 Front oxygen sensor circuit malfunction (short circuit)

P1134 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor microcomputer problem

P1137 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor circuit range/performance problem

P1139 Front oxygen (A/F) sensor #1 heater circuit performance/range problem

P1141 Mass air flow sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)
P1142 Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem (low input)

P1146 Pressure sensor circuit range/performance problem (high input)

P1230 Fuel pump control unit malfunction

P1244 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (low input)
P1245 Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (fail-safe)

P1301 Fire due to increased exhaust temperature

P1312 Exhaust temperature sensor malfunction

P1400 Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve circuit low input

P1420 Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve circuit high input

P1443 Evaporative emission control system vent control function problem

P1480 Cooling fan relay 1 circuit high input

P1507 Idle control system malfunction (fail-safe)

P1510 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 1 circuit low input
P1511 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 1 circuit high input
P1512 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 2 circuit low input
P1513 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 2 circuit high input
P1514 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 3 circuit low input
P1515 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 3 circuit high input
P1516 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 4 circuit low input
P1517 Idle air control solenoid valve signal 4 circuit high input
P1518 Starter switch circuit low input

P1540 Vehicle speed sensor malfunction 2

P1544 High exhaust temperature detected

P1560 Back-up voltage circuit malfunction

P1590 Neutral position switch circuit high input

P1591 Neutral position switch circuit low input
P1592 Neutral position switch circuit (MT model)

P1594 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit malfunction
P1595 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit low input
P1596 Automatic transmission diagnosis input signal circuit high input

P1698 Engine torque control cut signal circuit low input
P1699 Engine torque control cut signal circuit high input

P1700 Throttle position sensor circuit malfunction for automatic transmission
P1701 Cruise control set signal circuit malfunction for automatic transmission

P1703 Low clutch timing control solenoid valve circuit malfunction

P1711 Engine torque control signal 1 circuit malfunction
P1712 Engine torque control signal 2 circuit malfunction

Cheap wrx mod: Collapsing fuel EVAP line

2009-06-27T17:08:00.061-04:00

Aircraft Quality Collapsing Fuel EVAP line
Fits on all vehicles that have a fuel EVAP system!

Free shipping to continental USA
Note: All orders cut to qty. length, not one inch segments.
Unlimited supply, all lengths welcome!

Learn more about how it works by clicking here!

$2.99 per inch
6mm ID x 9.5mm OD x 1.5mm wall

Refunds will not be issued for incorrect sized hose! Please measure how much you need and verify dimensions before ordering. By ordering you agree to these terms!

Works with OEM and aftermarket inlets
Click pic to see larger image

User testimony of collapsing fuel EVAP lines:

Daryl of Chicago, IL July 8, 2009

Please choose 1-5, 5 being good 1 being bad.

The ease of installation?

7 It's almost too easy

The appearance of the product?
7 I wish all my hoses could look like this one ( super cool )

The durability of the product?

5 So far GREAT !

Do you feel the price is fair?

5 It's the least expensive upgrade I've bought for my car yet

Do you feel the product was shipped quickly?

5 It was at my house in two or three days

Total score : 27 out of 25!

How to install manual boost controller

2009-06-18T13:39:00.000-04:00

This is the most common modification to a Subaru Impreza WRX and STi and is typically the first thing done. However, manual boost controllers can be found on other turbo applications and the installation is basically the same. Manual boost controllers work using a spring loaded restricter pill or ball that can be adjusted. When adjusted, this determines how much pressure is needed from the turbo to open the wastegate. It's a very simple device but can be tricky to install. Use the diagram below to help with installation.
1. Remove old restricter pill lines that connect the wastegate to the turbo outlet vac port.
2. Disconnect original OEM electric boost controller sensor line (remove if you want, but I leave mine because you might not want people knowing you removed the ECU boost control; think about it)
3. Take the extra line removed and connect it to either side of your new MBC.
4. Connect the exit port of the MBC to the turbo inlet vac port.
5. Connect the entrance to port of the MBC to the wastegate vac port.
6. Mount MBC anywhere you please, close is better because less chance of a leak.
7. Adjust MBC according to manufacturers directions how many PSI you want to increase, or decrease.

Note: Installing a MBC on a vehicle that is untuned is dangerous to the engine if you tune for too much boost. Keep an eye on your air fuel ratio and make sure you aren't running lean. At wide open throttle, the Subaru's like 11.2. It's best to modify the intake and exhaust and remove all restrictions before cranking up the boost. It's safer on your engine and the hot air from the turbo won't linger around as long in the motor which can lead to premature FAIL.

Impreza WRX radiator hose install

2009-05-28T00:17:00.000-04:00

Installing a new radiator hose is easy, but you must burp the coolant system or risk frying your turbo, over heating the engine, etc. Don't get scared, the radiator hose is an easy install and does not require much time or tools. I used HiwowSport silicone radiator hose because it is the best quality, withstands installation, and has a brilliant color display way better than other hoses. I highly recommend using Hiwowsport!

2002 Subaru Impreza WRX radiator hose installation guide DIY
1. Start with a cool motor!
2. Locate the radiator hose, it's on top of the radiator and on the bottom driver's side.
3. Check coolant level prior to install, make note.
4. Disconnect OEM hose clamps
5. Place something under the hose to catch the coolant and prevent it from splashing on the header.
6. Wiggle off the hose portion connected to the radiator, and immediately lift it upwards as it is disconnected. Hole it in this position for about 30 seconds and let the coolant in the hose go back into the system.
7. Disconnect the rear portion of the hose.
8. Replace with new HiwowSport silicone hose and install new clamps. Pick up some mechanical fasteners at Advanced, Autozone, etc and use those instead of the OEM for your new pipe.

You're not done yet! You still need to burp the system!
9. Check the level in the overflow, make sure it doesn't exceed the full line.
10. Check the level in the reservoir, it needs to be flush with the bottom of the cap opening.
11. Seal the system back up, and start the car. Let it run for a couple of seconds.
12. Turn the car off, and loosen the cap in the reservoir.
13. Check fluid level in the reservoir (located by turbo!)
14. Squeaze the HiwowSport silicone hose in a pattern that "pumps" the fluid.
15. Fill reservoir to the top, and repeat until no more bubbles and the top reservoir stays full!

After installation, keep an eye on the hose and make sure you didn't puncture it during installation. This is rare but can occur! Warm the car up completely once, and check the coolant level again. Coolant is the life of your engine (aside from oil of course)!

Enjoy your fancy new HiwowSport silicone hose for many years to come! I know I will!

Check out silicone hoses, turbochargers, intercoolers, oil coolers and more at http://www.hiwowsport.com

Impreza WRX stuck in sand

2009-05-21T22:09:00.000-04:00

Well it happened, I finally got my subaru stuck in the sand. There was a wash out on a hill I normally climb and I didn't see it coming. Before I knew it, I was 50 feet into it and about 2 feet deep. I took a look out my door after getting stuck and thought, "Better take off the shoes, here we go!" Sure enough, 30 min later I dug it out and we had the Silverado there to save the day.

Before the Silverado yanked it out, a nice Florida Realtor named "Igor" stopped by to help me out. Very nice guy if you need a house in Florida call 352-428-3872. Best deals in Florida, and a very nice fellow. Here I am, a complete stranger and stuck like an idiot with my car in a wash. It's nice to find out there is still good people in the world. We tried to pull the Subaru out with is Lincoln town car, but it wasn't happening. He went for help as I waited and watched the rain roll in. Thanks for your help Igor!

Now it's raining hard, and the trenches my car and my shovel created were filling with water. Remember, I'm at the bottom of a hill in the wash; not the best place to be in hard rain. The rain had got up to the top of my side skirts, about to penetrate the interior. Here came the Silverado to save the day. Out just in the knick of time! Check out the pics below!

More fun to come this summer, check out Subaru-Offroad reality show.

There was no damage done to the vehicle, thanks to the Primitive Racing skid plate installed on my WRX. If it wasn't for the skid plate, the impact would have been on the vehicle components. The skid plate allowed my car to "ski" on the silt with out doing any damage to the bumper, suspension, alignment, drive line, etc. Thank you Primitive Racing!

The sand was very soft and silt like, and approximately 17 inches deep. As you can see in the above photo, the suspension was fully extended. The sway bar was the only thing restricting travel. With or without the sway bar, this Subaru was stuck.

Ken Block Gymkhana TWO

2009-05-14T19:02:00.001-04:00

Simulcast from Examiner.com: There is a new Ken Block Gymkhana video presented by DC Shoes is a sequel to the multi million view original "Ken Block Gymkhana practice" and "Gymkhana Bonus Video". Just released is the teaser film, highlighting the new vehicle and and prospecting stunts. The "Gymkhana TWO" film will be released June 1, 2009. It looks like the Monster WRX STi has been updated, and ready for more intense action. The car appears to be built stronger than before, suggesting more intense stunts. Ken Block's movies feature amazing car stunts, high performance Subaru Impreza WRX STi rally cars built by Crawford Performance.

Video content: Ken Block Gymkhana Two Teaser

For HD Version, Click here.

Ken Block, DC Shoes, and Crawford Performance are known around the world for these amazing videos. All releases of these internet phenomena videos display millions of hits in only a couple of weeks. It is amazing the following that has been generated through YouTube, StreetFire.net, and more. The previous ski mountain video featured in "Mountain Lab 1.5" has brought in 2.2 million hits on Youtube. Other videos like "Gymkhana Practice" bringing in 4.5 million views, and the most famous video of him jumping a Subaru WRC car 171 feet titled "Ken Block jumps his rally car 171 feet" are previous examples of what is to come. For the future release of Ken Block Gymkhana Two, bookmark and subscribe to StreetFire.net's user profile "TheRing".

About "DC Shoes"

"DC Shoes is a American footwear company specializing in shoes for skateboarding as well as snowboarding boots, snowboards, shirts, jeans, hats, and jackets. The company was founded in 1993 and is based in Vista, CA. DC originally stood for 'Droors Clothing Footwear', but since the sale of Droors (which is now defunct), DC no longer has any ties to Droors and is simply DC Shoes. On March 10, 2004, DC Shoes was acquired by Quiksilver. The company manufactures footwear for all types of extreme sports, including skateboarding, snowboarding, BMX, motocross, rally car racing, and surfing, for men, women, and kids."-wikipedia

About "Crawford Performance"

Crawford Performance is the magic behind the vehicles used in Ken Block videos. By using high powered Subaru engines, the Impreza seen above can be used to win any event. Domination of AWD events is easy when you use Crawford Performance. Read more about Crawford Performance at http://www.crawfordperformance.com

Want to chat with Subaru enthusiasts? Check out DirtyImpreza.comRelated articles:

Official Nurburgring Enthusiast Group

The best car videos

Crawford Performance wins 2009 season opener

Crawford Performance sets new track record!

Ken Block Gymkhana Bonus Video

New Ken Block Video

Nurburgring Videos

Subaru Impreza WRX STi performance parts

How to Rally

Read more about the author's car at http://subaru-offroad.blogspot.com

What parts are used in the Subaru WRC Car?

2009-02-18T22:37:00.000-05:00

2007 Subaru Impreza WRX STI Rally Car

ENGINE
Engine Code: EJ20
Type: 1994cc, horizontally-opposed four, DOHC, turbocharged and intercooled
Internal Modifications: Unknown
External Modifications: 34mm inlet restrictor, three-inch stainless steel exhaust system
Engine Management Modifications: Motec ECU, Premier 88-liter fuel cell, Sunoco 104 GT Plus fuel

DRIVETRAIN
Layout: Longitudinal front engine, all-wheel drive
Drivetrain Modifications: KAPS five-speed dogbox gearset, programmable DCCD ECU, Exedy twin-plate clutch, Cusco front differential, rear differential, STI driveshafts, quick-ratio steering rack, front hubs, high-pressure power steering pump

SUSPENSION
Front: Ohlins coilovers with pressure-sensitive damping and hydraulic bumpstops
Rear: Ohlins coilovers with pressure-sensitive damping and hydraulic bumpstops, Cusco lateral links, trailing links

BRAKES
Front: AP Racing/STI Group N gravel-spec four-piston fixed calipers, 295mm two-piece rotors, Ferodo DS3000 pads
Rear: AP Racing/STI Group N gravel-spec four-piston fixed calipers, 285mm two-piece rotors, Ferodo DS3000 pads

EXTERNAL
Wheels: Work gravel rally, 15x7
Tires: 195/70/15 BFGoodrich gravel rally tire
*Body: PIAA HID driving lights, carbon fiber light pod, STI roof scoop, 1/4-inch aluminum sump guard, carbon-Kevlar underfloor protection
Interior: FIA Group N roll cage, Recaro SPA ProRacer seats, carbon fiber dash w/anti-glare coating, carbon fiber door cards, carbon fiber co-driver footrest, Sabelt six-point harnesses, hydraulic handbrake, Coralba C-Giant rally computer

WRX Oil Smell Fix

2009-02-17T22:26:00.000-05:00

Does your engine bay smell like burnt oil after a hard run? There is a chance it is a faulty half-moon gasket for your crank case ventilation port. A quick fix for this is to use copper & silicon based high temperature sealant. The passenger side ventilation port is usually the first to leak because it is near the hottest part of the engine bay. Exhaust wrap can help prevent the gasket from failing due to high heat exposure.

There is no actual "wet" oil leak you will get from this issue. After time, it will build up and leak down the side of the valve cover and onto your up-pipe or cross over pipe. This will create a burnt oil smell.

To confirm this, you'll need to use a flashlight and trace the smoke. Typically a small puddle will form on the cross over pipe/header heat shield. During harsh runs, this shield heats up and burns the oil.
Remember! There are two evap ports, one on either side of the motor located on the top of the valve cover. If you are going to seal one, you might as well do the other. My gasket for the passenger side failed at 70,000 miles.

Impreza WRX Coolant Line Wrap

2009-02-16T21:11:00.001-05:00

Wrapping the coolant lines is a great way to reduce the intake temperature. The coolant lines that feed your heater coils run only a few inches under your intercooler. Naturally, heat rises, and so will the heat from your coolant lines.

Coolant lines are typically too hot to touch for long, so these need to be wrapped. Premature wear will occur, so only wrap lines that are going to make a difference. The lines running under the intercooler are the best candidates for this wrap. There is also another line that continues across the top of the engine block. You should wrap this one too because it runs under the intake manifold.

I also went a step further and wrapped my intercooler spray feed line, and windshield washer fluid reservoir. The header wrap is designed to keep temperatures "IN", whether hot or cold it is a thermal resistance layer. By wrapping the intercooler tank and lines, you can keep that ice water colder just a little longer and squeeze maybe 1-2 degrees cooler out of your intercooler spray. This will only work when you are running ice water in your tank, otherwise whatever ambient temperature was the last time your car sat will be what is being insulated.

Wrap the lines using the same overlap sizing requirements as what is called for the headers. My header wrap called for no more than 1/4" overlap. I used this overlap size while wrapping the coolant lines. Instead of using mechanical ties, I used high temperature plastic zip-ties. I spaced them out about an inch apart and put the actual tie down on the back.

This is a very good way to properly insulate your coolant lines and prevent thermal energy from transfering to your intercooler thus reducing intake charge. Every little bit counts, because in the end it all adds up. RacerX recommends using Royal Purple "Purple Ice" with 50/50 water mixture for coolant, in combination with silicon hose for maximum cooling gains.

WRX Header Wrap

2009-02-11T19:12:00.000-05:00

Notes: Wrapping the headers is best attempted with two people. You will need a 12mm socket, wd-40 for rusted bolts, and a few metal tie fasteners.

Wrapping the headers of the wrx is a great way to cool engine bay temperatures and increase horsepower and torque while simultaneously increasing the lifespan of gaskets and hoses. Header wrap is also a great way to increase gas mileage due to the temperature drop of the engine bay.

First you will want to remove the heat shields on the headers. The heat shield that goes around the cross over pipe is okay to leave. This extra layer of air will help prevent rust and corrosion from getting the cross over pipe. Instead the rust and corrosion will attack the heat shield. You can't do this with the headers, only the cross over pipe.

The heat shield on the driver's side is easily removed by three bolts. These bolts will probably be rusted so you'll want to soak them in WD-40 or any spray lubricant with penetrative properties. The bolts will not easily come out, and may require you tap the socket wrench with a hammer or your fist to break them loose. Some of them may even "rust shut" and either break off or be terribly hard to remove. Try to take care NOT to break bolts. Remeber, bolts break easily on subarus!

The passenger side heat shield requires removal of the front O2 sensor. This requires a special o2 sensor wrench you can pick up at any auto store. Ask them what size you need to make sure you get the right tool. You'll also need a 1/2 inch drive socket with extension neck to use with this O2 sensor tool. It's easier to remove this O sensor if you take out a couple of the pressure plastic clips that hold the inner wheel fender in place. This thin plastic doesnt' require removal, only loosening to access the O2 sensor.

Get the sensor out, and DO NOT TOUCH the head of the sensor with your fingers or any contaminents. The head of the sensor is inside of the pipe and uses heat coils to detect oxygen and fuel levels in your exhaust telling your computer how rich/lean it needs to run. Ruining this sensor will throw a CEL that causes limp mode map, and pulls timing that leads to lean conditions while in boost. Stay out of boost if your CEL get's thrown from doing this mod and replace the fouled sensor. Sometimes, you just need reset the ECU and the sensor will be okay again. Try the simple ECU reset first before replacing sensors.

Now that the sensor is out you can remove the heat passenger side header heat shielding. After both headers have removed shielding you can start to wrap the headers and cross over pipe.

I started wrapping the driver's side header first. This is not an easily wrapped shape and will require a couple of over-laps to completly wrap the header. Do not wrap more than 1/4" over-lap anywhere because this can cause too much heat to be retained resulting in fatigue due to heat. Make sure the wrap is snug at all times while wrapping by having a friend hold pressure where needed to secure the header wrap.

Continue wrapping the headers from the driver side to the passenger side, across the cross-over pipe, around the O2 sensor, and up the up pipe. Be sure to keep the 1/4" rule consistent especially around joints and gaskets in your exhaust system. I don't think wrapping the turbo is recommended. A heat shield is best to prevent over heating. You can continue the wrap on your down pipe down to the mid-pipe and stop. There is really no need to wrap the down pipe any further than 8 inches past firewall. You'll want this additional wrap 8 inches past the firewall to ensure any additional heat where it is not wrapped is not entering the engine bay.

Combine this modification with an intercooler spray, larger TMIC, TGV delete, and phenolic gaskets and you will have a very cool intake charge.

WRX Hidden Weight Reductions

2009-02-10T23:51:00.001-05:00

There are plenty of weight reductions that can be done to the wrx with out making your car into a full blown race car. Most people don't want to compromise the look of the car. The fact is, most people won't see your trunk. Some will see your interior, and everyone can see the outside.

The trunk and passenger cabin contain plenty of hidden weight reductions that can be completed in a couple of hours work. The engine bay, front and rear end also contain several extra components. Add up these several small parts, and a mass amount of weight reduction can be completed. I will post my total weight reduction here when I finish. Any skilled mechanic can complete these.

First, you'll need to understand how to remove the rubber sound deadening material that is sprayed to the chassis, located through out the passenger cabin and trunk. This material is actually heavy and should be removed. Use a 1" wide paint chisel and hammer to remove this material. You'll want to use a wood-pecker removal style, using more frequent less power hits than one huge powerful blow. This will prevent chipping into and damaging the chassis sealant.

Removal of this material will make for a slightly louder external noises to enter the passenger cabin. I consider this a good thing. For off road use, you will be able to hear the consistency of terrain you are currently traversing and the amount of wheel spin you are experiencing. I removed all of the sound deadening material from the back seat and trunk for a total of 4 lbs! Awesome!

Trunk Weight Reduction

The trunk contains several pounds of unnecessary weight that can be shed by removing several components. Floor and side carpeting, wood spare wheel cover, spare wheel, jack, extra tool set, plastic trunk lip, and rubber sound deadening material can all be removed. Be careful placing objects in a trunk with no carpet, because if you scratch it, rust can occur. If you must put something in the trunk, take care with metal or sharp edges. Removal of the rear spoiler is also a good weight reduction, but will negatively affect traction at higher speeds.

Passenger Cabin Weight Reduction

The passenger cabin contains even more weight than the trunk. There are several key locations that are hidden weight reductions. If you do not have regular back passengers or live in a cold climate, remove the rear floor vents. Both of these combined equal about two pounds! There is also sound deadening foam under the carpet surrounding the transmission cavity that can be removed.

Sound Deadening Material
Additional sound deadening materials and boards can be removed from behind the rear passenger seat and below it. Along the rear fenders, behind the rear seat, there is more sound deadening rubber that can be removed. There is also additional sound deadening rubber located under the seat, and floor boards from what I can see so far.

Electronics
You can also remove your sub woofer for a couple of pounds if deep bass isn't your thing. Not many people even know there's a sub in there, and to be honest I can't really tell a difference worth the weight.

Safety Equipment
The doors contain crash bars that can be removed. These bars weigh about 40 lbs of total weight loss and are completely hidden. However, it is suggest that you use a roll cage if you plan on removing these crash bars. Air bags can be removed too for additional weight loss. Crash bars and air bags are worth at least 50 lbs in weight reduction.

Engine Bay
The engine bay contains several extremely heavy components that can be removed for weight reduction. The air conditioning system, cannot be noticed during cooler seasons. If you are like me, I barely use my a/c so it's an easy way to shed lbs.

There is also a wire harness cover and thick brass bracket on the passenger side near the OEM boost controller that can be removed. Located in the same area is the OEM boost controller. If you are using a manual boost controller, you can remove the stock boost controller and lines.

Additionally, you can shorten the coolant return lines to the coolant reservoir and run away from your intake instead of directly on the box. Replace the evap return lines with "Light Aircraft" fuel lines. Replace standard rubber lines with lighter silicon hoses and shed a few pounds while curb appeal, and extending the longevity of parts.

Lastly, the brackets that protect the fuel injectors during assembly are very heavy and can be removed. You'll need to remove the intake manifold to remove these brackets. You'll also need to separate the metal hose connector that is part of the driver's side bracket so that the oil evap lines can be continuous otherwise replacing the hose with a longer one can do the same thing. This can be removed with a cutting wheel and air compressor with ease. The coolant reservoir is bolted on top of the passenger side bracket. After removing the brackets you'll need to put some washers or spacers in to replace the thickness of the bracket to keep the coolant reservoir snug. The result is a very neat in appearance engine bay with injectors visible. The huge ugly brackets have got to go!

Front End
Replacement of the OEM headlights and foglights with aftermarket lighting products is a great way to loose weight and increase visibility. Even though ebay wrc style lights are considered by some as inferior, if you install these and add auxillary lighting, you will still lose a couple of pounds and gain plenty of lighting.

The stock foglights are glass and very heavy. The brackets that these fog lights attach with are also decently heavy. Removal of these components and replacement using lighter weight kartboy fog light mounts and aftermarket lights like Hella, KC, etc are excellent ways to increase visibility and reduce weight of your WRX.

You can also remove the stock air intake silencer box and shed a couple of pounds. If you remove the entire stock intake system, you can shed a really great amount of weight. This is a good way to lighten the front end and increase performance. However, removal of the stock intake will require a ECU tune otherwise it could cause lean conditions that lead to engine failure. (BANG)

An aluminum radiator and lightened pulleys will also shed a few pounds. The stock or any standard battery is always heavy, but even the carbon fiber batteries dont' shed that many pounds. They are really expensive too! Removal of the sound deading material in the hood is also a good way to shed some pounds. You'll want to retain the material directly over the turbo if you do not have a turbo heat shield installed otherwise it can fade/crack destroy the paint from extreme temperatures.

Best First Upgrades WRX

2009-02-10T03:53:00.000-05:00

The best upgrades to choose first is based upon what you plan to do with the vehicle and what your over all power goals are. A 2.0 wrx can go anywhere from stock hp all the way up to 500 whp and still be a daily driver. The first upgrades for 500 whp goals are drastically different than for someone with a 300 whp goal.

Most people want 300 whp out of their first upgrades. It is possible to get 300 whp with tubo-back exhaust, up-pipe, boost controller (GM or manual), bigger turbo, fuel pump & injectors (Sti pinks or higher) and an ECU tune by either COBB Accessport hand held unit or open source tuning done by an professional tuner.

Tuning is a great finish after your first mods because you will unleash the beast within. Even a completely stock wrx can bennefit from a tune, but the results won't be as much as someone completely stage 2 or higher.

See my tuner information above to get ahold of him through http://www.tamparacing.com under the username "3gSucks". A great ecu tune is perfect to complete the best first upgrades.

WRX Tumble Generator Valve TGV Delete

2009-02-07T20:03:00.007-05:00

The tumble generator valves (TGV)in my 2002 subaru impreza wrx are restricting about 25% of flow and need to be removed. TGV's are only on USA impreza's and used to meet cold start emissions. The first 20 seconds or so, when you start you car it wants to breath. The TGV has butterfly valves that are closed a certain percentage when you start the car cold, restricting flow and thus meeting emissions.

If you do not have the tools to delete your TGV properly, I can do it for you. Send me your TGV valve assemblies and I'll perform the delete for $79.99 plus shipping. Order below and then send assemblies to:

Michael Berenis
13447 Drayton Drive
Spring Hill, FL 34609 USA

Telephone number for international shippers: 1-352-678-7373

*TGV delete service (off road use only)

Removes butterflies and flow divider
Sensor and butterfly shaft left installed or removed & plugged
Surface prepping for gaskets included for both
Price is for two assemblies serviced (left and right)
No check engine light if leaving shaft & sensor installed!
Allow 7-14 days turn around time

*By purchasing the TGV delete service you agree these TGV assemblies will not be installed on a vehicle used on public roadways. For off road use only!

Removing the TGV's is not an easy task, and porting them out is even harder. If you don't port them right you get wild AFR's due to turbulence. If you have no metal work experience do not attempt to port the TGV yourself.

To remove the TGV's to be ported, they are located under the intake manifold and require removal of the following parts (not in sequential order):

Tower Strut Brace (If installed)
Intercooler
Throttle body to intercooler hose
Throttle body & Gasket
Coolant Reservoir (Drain, Disconnect, Remove)
Turbo Inlet Hose
Power Steering Hose Bracket
Fuel Rail Bracket
Fuel Injectors
Washer fluid Reservoir
Battery
Wire Harness Bracket
Maf hose
Air Filter Box Top & Bottom
EVAP Control Valve
Drive Belt Cover
Other Various Nominclature

DIRECTIONS:

Remove the TGV for Porting and Polishing

Get a bunch of zip lock bags and a way to label the bolts, nuts, clamps, etc removed.

Start by removing your tower strut brace, intercooler, intake filter box, maf hose, pulley belt cover, battery, windshield washer fluid reservoir, coolant reservoir. Loosen and disconnect the power steering line that is coming out of the top, be sure to save the bracket. Locate the wire harness that runs on top of the intake manifold, and disconnect everything needed to make it free. Ignition coils and other various sensors are attached to this wire harness. There is also groun points that need to be removed too. Disconnect the wire harness itself which is located between the battery and windshield washer reservoir. Disconnect fuel lines from filter or brass 3 brace. Be sure to number hoses. Remove all 12mm and 10mm bolts holding the intake manifold down onto the block.

Now the intake manifold should be able to wiggle. If not, keep looking for bolts until you find which one is not removed. If its not super tight, its probably a hose or wire harness. Once you get the intake manifold to be really loose but not coming out, there is two or three sensors connected to the wire harness and they are located under the intake manifold. Disconnect them.

Once you have the intake manifold free from the motor, you'll need to take off the bolts for the fuel rails, and loosen the screw clamps on the rubber hose part of the rails. The TGV's should be semi loose but not free. Keep checking for bolts and various connections. The last thing I removed before my TGV was completely free was the injectors. Take special care not to put any pressure or dirt on the head of the injector that resides in either the fuel rail or TGV. Damaging this can cause lean conditions in that cylinder and end up in a blown motor if not properly diagnosed and repaired. Check engine light should occur if anything is wrong.

Now the TGV's should be free. If you do not have the tools to delete your TGV properly, I can do it for you. Send me your TGV valve assemblies and I'll perform the delete for $79.99 plus shipping. Order below and then send assemblies to:

Michael Berenis
13447 Drayton Drive
Spring Hill, FL 34609 USA

Telephone number for international shippers: 1-352-678-7373

*TGV delete service (off road use only)

Removes butterflies and flow divider
Sensor and butterfly shaft left installed or removed & plugged
Surface prepping for gaskets included for both
Price is for two assemblies serviced (left and right)
No check engine light if leaving shaft & sensor installed!
Allow 7-14 days turn around time

*By purchasing the TGV delete service you agree these TGV assemblies will not be installed on a vehicle used on public roadways. For off road use only!

You'll notice the butterfly valves, and they are probably covered in grime and oil. You'll also notice the huge metal division plate that goes across the TGV. You'll want to remove only the butterfly valves and the huge metal plate, but retain the use of the bar that goes through the TGV connecting the butterfly valves to the sensor. If you remove the sensors or disable their function, you will cause about 12 CEL codes and limp mode.

To avoid a CEL when performing the TGV delete, you MUST RETAIN USE OF THE SENSOR AND ONLY REMOVE BUTTERFLY VALVES AND DIVISION PLATE. Make sure that you port it right otherwise you will get wack air fuel ratio's and blow up your motor. Smooth and conforming, and clean them very well! It is suggested if you do not have experience with metal do not continue. (Send me your TGV and I'll do it right so you don't have to worry!) Or continue.. the choice is yours!

Porting and Polishing of the TGV
Note: You do not need remove the TGV sensors and butterfly valve bar while grinding out the aluminum division plate. Retention of these items will prevent CEL's related to TGV sensors missing.

Start by using a bur or dremel to remove the back of the screw holding the butterfly valves to the sensor shaft. Be careful not to cut the sensor shaft if you want to avoid CEL. Cutting the back of the screw holding the TGV butterfly valve will allow you to unscrew the pressed phillips. This is soft metal, even after cutting the back sof the screws use downpressure and proper sized driver to remove the 4 philips screws retaining the butterfly valves.

After you remove the butterfly valves out of the TGV, you will want to use another bur and dremel to remove the aluminum division plate. Take care to match the pattern on the manifold to avoid leaks. You will be working near the fuel injector area, so keep everything smooth.

Comparison of TGV Delete & OEM

After completing the TGV Delete, RacerX recommends that a phenolic gaskets should be used to lower intake manifold temperatures. See Thread

Re-Installation of the TGV Delete
Note: It is imperative that you follow torque values while reinstalling the TGV delete. You can find these torque values in the service manual found on the right side of our blog. You also want to make sure you gaskets sit flush and that means removing any old gasket material that may exist. This picture below illustrates what a clean TGV bottom looks like.
First you will want to remove any extra gasket material located on either the heads, TGV's, or the intake manifold. Any material left in these areas will cause boost leaks and potential damage to the engine from contaminents being sucked in. I removed the old gasket material by soaking it in throttle body cleaner, and then taking a wire wheel to it. Be sure to cover or plug your intake valves on the head and block off turbo from getting the debrise into places you dont want it to be. The oil evap half-moons should also be covered as they are really close to where your working. After the wire wheel removed all the material, I used an oil stone to smooth out the rest. When finished, close your eyes and use your finger to find any bumps in the surface. You must close your eyes because it tricks the brain into amplifying it's sense of touch. Try it you'll be surprised how big bumps will feel with your eyes closed!

After you get the gasket surfaces cleaned up, you can start rebuilding your intake manifold assembly. Check the fuel injector gaskets, they are really cheap. Mine were fine but I decided to replaced them just to be safe. Faulty fuel injector gaskets are the number one cause for engine fires!

Fuel Injectors
The fuel injectors are snug fit, and are held in the tgv's by the fuel rail brackets. Follow spec values especially here. Place the gasket on the top of the TGV and line up the tgv with the intake manifold. There is some bolts that stick out you can use to guide it in. Don't secure it yet. Reinstall the fuel injectors by bolting on the fuel rails. Now you can secure the TGV to the intake manifold. Connect the wire harness to the fuel injectors, and now your ready to drop it back in the motor!

Drop in Intake Manifold & TGV Assembly
This is best done with two people because the part is somewhat of a hassle and can result in damaged gaskets. You'll want to lay your gaskets and phenolic spacers down on the heads before droppin in the intake. Get the intake manifold assembly to rest where it's suppose to go but do not bolt it on yet. Be sure to feed the coolant line up through the intake manifold between the intakes on the passenger side. It goes on the inside of the manifold, not the outside.

Resinstall all sensors and turbo inlet now. Secure the turbo inlet with a metal strip tie before bolting down the TGV. If you are using a silicon turbo inlet , there is very little room to play between it and the TGV. Securing this down before you secure the tgb/intake assembly will ensure it stays in place.

After the inlet and sensors are reconnected, you will want to secure the manifold to the head. Torque spec values are impartive when reinstalling the intake manifold assembly. Use the service manual to find torque spec values for your vehicle. You will want to secure and torque down the bolts in as close to a star shaped pattern as possible to ensure proper gasket adhearance. After they are torqued down to spec, you will want to take a gap tool and check for gaps. There should be ZERO gap between your intake manifold and TGV, TGV and head.

I chose not to use lock-tite because one day I might want to take this apart. Being aluminum, it is very easily stripped and the bolts on the subaru like to break. I do not suggest using lock-tite.

After the manifold is secured, you have to piece together the rest of the system. There are multiple lines, connectors, etc that you will have to connect. Make sure you get all of them. A good way to figure out what-goes-where is to look at how it's formed. As long as you didn't disrupt the natural layout of the wireharness it's pretty self explanatory. The service manual has the specifics but I just eyeballed it. Let the wire or hose hang in it's natural shape and it will lead you to it's home!

After everything is back together...WARNING!
-DO NOT START ENGINE UNTIL CHECKING FOR FUEL LEAKS
-ENGINE FIRE CAN OCCUR
-NO OPEN FLAME OR SPARK SOURCES WHILE CHECKING FOR LEAKS
Cycle the fuel pump by turning the key to ON but not start before you start the engine for the first time. This will pressurize the fuel system. Look and smell under the hood after pressurizing the system and check for fuel leaks. Typical leak zones are on top of the injectors, under the intake manifold where the metal lines meet rubber lines, and around the fuel line bracket near the fuel filter. FUEL LEAKS CAUSE FIRE!

Don't give up, when your confused seek the service manual. If you have any questions feel free to call me at 352-678-7373 and maybe I will be able to help you out. I'm not a mechanic, but at least I've done this before and might be able to guide you in the right direction. If not, I know plenty of people that can. Subaru means "Unite" always remember that and your subaru ownership experience will be even better!

WRX Port and Polish

2009-02-04T21:07:00.004-05:00

Are you looking for that last edge of performance out of your WRX ? You should try a port and polish package on your vehicle. Several parts can be PNP if you have access to the proper tools, work bench, safety equipment, etc. If you do not have access to the requirements of PNP let me take care of your porting and polishing needs. Send me your parts and I'll PNP them for you!

WRX port and polish service

Intercooler Y-pipes (metal only)
Intercooler exit
Full turbo (includes inlet & exit of both intake and exhaust side!)
Throttle body
MAF exit
MAF to turbo inlet hose connector
Headers
Cross over pipe
Up pipe
Send all parts to our contact us address below!

Summary
Porting and polishing the throttle body and intercooler y-pipes will help reduce the amount of turbulence in your intake. The Perrin intercooler hose had some horrible turbulent zones that needed to be "exacto" knife'd out. It was about 10% clogged. I'm pretty ashamed to know that was on my car like that for so long. I'm sure I'll notice a huge difference from fixing the perrin Y-pipe. After using the knife on the y-pipe, I used a dremel stone, sand paper, and steel wool to port and polish out the throttle body.

The throttle body has ridges that are really disruptive. You'll want to smooth out the lip and any ridges you see to make the air flow with ease. The lip has about 3 mm worth of material that can be removed and smoothed out. On the back side of the throttle body, there is rough zones from casting that can be sanded and polished out. There is a ridge in the back too that should be sanded out.

Be sure to take special care with your intercooler during this process. The fins bend easily. I decided to take it a step further and port/polish the intercooler exhaust port. By combining the TB pnp and Intercooler exhaust port pnp, this should make the transition of air seamless.

Port and polishing the intercooler y-pipes is easy, and you will know you've done a good job once you feel the part start to be come lighter. Be sure not to sand through any walls, but you want to maximize the size of the pipe. Smooth out the casting seams and make sure all casting "texture" is gone. I used a round metal file attached to a drill for this. Then I took some 500 grit sand paper and smoothed it out, followed by steel wool. The metal surface is smooth as glass. It's how it feels, not necessarily how it looks.

Look at the before and after pics of the ridges, and you'll understand how porting and polishing these parts can help your car! Probably good for about 3-5 hp.

BEFORE

AFTER

MAF Exit

You cannot polish this because it is plastic, but you can port it to reduce turbulence in the exit. The MAF exit has square edges that cause air to become trapped and create little swirls. Some say these swirls help push the air, I say it is restriction and should be smooth.

Start by making a 45 degree grind using slower speed and less pressure than metal. You'll want to round out this 45 degree grind and make it look bell shaped. Be careful not to cut through the plastic.

Note: Looks do not matter, you want to use your fingers to feel smoothness. Use sunlight and look at the part from different angles to make sure it is all even. A good eye and a micrometer helps.

Results:

Turbo Inlet & Exit
Porting and polishing of the turbo inlet and turbo exit is fairly easy once you have the intake manifold and TGV's removed. You do not have to remove the turbo if you pnp it while doing the TGV delete. Taping and plastic, with some care you can keep all metal out of the turbo and successfully port it.

I used a hand drill and a triangular shaped carbide bit, and round grinding drum. Starting with a 45 degree angle I made mine bell shaped rather than knife shaped.

Taped Up Before

After

MAF to Turbo Inlet Hose Connector

This is also a very easy job to do, but takes more time because of the thickness of the connector. They are about 3/8" thick with square flat edges. This must be changed to improve flow. I created a bell shaped inlet and knife shaped outlet, and ported out about 50% of the thickness. Using a triangular shaped carbide bit and round grinding drum with a power drill, this part takes about 20 minutes and a very close eye. The bell is hard to shape, and you must make sure not to cut through the metal. On the opposite side of the bell is a crease, this crease is the thinnest point so be alert when grinding that specific area.

Results

WRX Intake Temperature Kit

2009-02-03T18:57:00.000-05:00

For the intake temperature I chose to go with Auberins. This handy little device features MAX temperature memory and alarm output relay for when it reaches your set temperatures. It's industrial quality and affordable. The device with K-Type thermosensor will fead real-time temperatures from your intake to a red LCD screen that fits nicely in the stock dash.

WRX Free Mods

2009-02-03T18:40:00.001-05:00

Free Mods

This is some basic free mods that you can do in your spare time to get a little more sound and performance out of your subaru.

Coolant Line Relocation

Move the coolant lines away from your intake. A simple snip and trim will relocate and remove excess hose. The idea is to get the HOT coolant away from your intake tubing. To take a step further, for minimal cost some insulation could be fabricated for the coolant lines to keep the thermal energy at bay.

Throttle body coolant bypass

Bypass the coolant going through the throttle body.

This modification keeps the HOT coolant from running through your throttle body. This keeps the part cooler for longer periods of time, and keeps the throttle body at whatever temperature is post intercooler. Add an intercooler spray system to keep this temperature down if needed. Also, this modification in cooler climates may cause the idle air control valve or throttle body valve to freeze in cold temperatures. During the cold season, you should replace the coolant line if you anticipate any issues.

Up-Pipe Heat Source Elimination

Remove the clip that holds your front wideband sensor wire lead (in your up pipe). This clip comes out from the motor and can be seen from above. Use a zip tie and secure the lead to your brake lines. Don't overtighten.

Clean Idle Control Valve and MAF Sensor

Cleaning the idle control valve and MAF sensor is fairly easy task. See this for instructions.

Remove air intake silencer

Removing the air intake silencer is easy too! First, remove the ram air duct by taking out the two 10 mm bolts holding it to the front frame. Then disconnect and set aside the ram air duct. Next, take off the clamps holding the top of the air filter box and remove the element. Disconnect the MAF sensor and take off the MAF hose from the top of the air filter box. Set aside the top of the air filter box and remove the lower part of the air filter box. Set aside the lower air filter box. Remove the nut that is holding the tube in your fender, it's located by the abs box but on the side of the fender. Next, crawl under the car and take out the clips that hold the fender liner. Only remove the clips neccessary to access the inner fender. Once you can access it, remove the bolt that holds the silencer in place. Take out the silencer, and replace it with silicon or stainles pipe.

Modified Hood Scoop Chimney

Expand the chimney port in your hood scoop to let more hot air out and more cool air in. Cut out the grating and make it about .5" wider on all sides, this will increase flow and you wont loose rigidity of the scoop plate.

WRX Gauges for Off Road

2009-02-03T18:39:00.000-05:00

Gauges

You need to be able to monitor boost pressure, voltage, oil temperature, RPM, coolant temperature, intake temperature post intercooler, and AFR. The worst thing you can do is overheat your engine while offroad, and this happens all the time to people that don't take proper measures to monitor and prevent. Watch your coolant temp, and make sure your intake temp after intercooler is alright. Heatsoak will occur naturally, so use that intercooler water spray to cool down your intercooler when doing hard offroad use. I've seen my intake temps go up to 186F and then I sprayed water, brought it back down to 110F within seconds. I can't stress it enough, keep your car cool!

Keep an eye on your oil temperature gauge to let you know another point of refernece of temperature. When I see my oil reach 90C I start looking for a way to get some fresh cool air into the motor. Usually reaching constant speed of 60mph for about 30 seconds will do. These cars aren't designed to go slow down hot trails, so you need to modify and adapt to the vehicle otherwise you'll be stranded !!

How to Keep WRX Running Cool

2009-02-03T18:37:00.000-05:00

Keeping it Cool
You need to think of every single imaginable way to keep your engine cool if you intend on going off road. There are several free tricks, and a few not so expensive mods that can help.

Larger Intercooler and Water Spray System
Swapping out your stock wrx intercooler for the STI's intercooler is a good way to keep subaru parts in your car and upgrade to a cooler intake. However, this is not always affordable. Ebay intercoolers work just as good too!

Whether or not you buy a larger intercooler, you can still rig up an intercooler spray system. This is a system using the stock windshield washer fluid reservoir with water in it, pumped through a system of tubes and then through nozzels which atomize the water turning it to vapor and cooling the surface of your intercooler. This will work for both top mount and front mount styles, but you see the most results using a top mount. You can find the nozzles at lowes or home depot for $5.00 for a 6 pack, but I only used three. They are called "FOGGER" nozzles and can be found in the plumbing section of each store. You want foggers and misters, not spray jets. The key is to get the water to vaporize so that its cooling the air in the intercooler intake tract. I placed on in the center, and one on either side. You can see an example in the video above!

WRX Intake Temperature Data

2009-02-03T16:30:00.000-05:00

I have been recording my intake temperature data for about 3 months now. I have found that the intake temperature after the intercooler is somewhat cooler than expected.

During extreme use, the intake temperature can rise to as much as 186 degrees farenheit with ambient temperatures being 85 defrees farenheit. This sample was taken doing donuts in the middle of the jungle with no breeze and 100% humidity at 200'+sea level. This is using a stock td04 turbo tuned to 19.5 psi running open source tune ECU at 11.2 afr WOT.

Using the car under normal daily driving conditions, with ambient temperatures at 85F the intake temperature is steady around 114F. Intercooler water spray will reduce this temperature to 108F.

Driving the car in extreme conditions with ambient temperature at 65F the car will reach maximum intake temperatures of 125F and spraying the intercooler with water reduces back to 85F.

Driving the car under normal daily driving conditions, with ambient temperatures at 65F the intake temparture is steady around 85 and spraying the intercooler with water will reduce it to about 78F.

The use of intercooler water spray drastically reduces intake temperatures under heavy use from 186 down to 115 within 15 seconds of spraying. Introduction of methanol into the intake would reduce temepratures even more. However, by using water alone you can decrease the intake temperature. This allows the intake gases to be more dense, produce more power, and increase gas mileage. So in theory, you can use water as a fuel in your wrx.

WRX sti Turbo Inlet Installation

2009-02-03T16:24:00.000-05:00

Installing the turbo inlet hose is not easy, but it can be done with out removing the intake manifold. You do not have to remove the intake manifold to install an aftermarket turbo inlet hose, however, it does make life much easier.

I installed my turbo inlet hose in one day. I started in the morning and finished at night. To start the installation, simply get ready to cut. Cut anything that's in your way. Start removing the bolts and hoses to the oem inlet, and then get it loose. Once the oem inlet is loose, you'll need to cut it in sections to get it out. It's not hard, it can be done. Just keep trying. I did it, so can you.

After you work for hours to get the oem inlet out, now you need to slave over getting the aftermarket one wedged in there. Start by lubricating the surface of the inlet with rubbing alcohol. I used a spray bottle and water/ alcohol mix and it worked just fine. I chose to use rubbing alcohol rather than grease because it evaporates and doesn't leave behind anything slippery which will cause stuff to fall apart. Getting the turbo inlet requires you mash, twist, turn, and do about everything except destroy the new aftermarket inlet. Be sure to buy a quality part if you intend on not removing the intake manifold while installing your turbo inlet.

Once your done, ahh the sweet sound of spool. You'll be able to hear your turbo much better now. When I first installed it, it felt like I had a lear jet pulling my car. It makes the turbo so much louder, it is so worth it. So get ready to get bloody, dirty, pissed off, and go have fun installing your turbo inlet. You can do it with out removing the intake manifold.

WRX Downpipe

2009-02-03T16:16:00.000-05:00

Wrx downpipe is a very easy and cheap modification to gain extra performance out of your subaru impreza wrx. A downpipe is part of the exhaust that goes from the turbo to the catalytic converter, and can be made from various manufacturers, have different designs, flow rates, performance gains, longevity, and more.

When purchasing a downpipe for your wrx, figure out exactly what your over all plan is for the car. If you purchase a downpipe for the stock turbo setup, you cannot use it with a rotated mount turbo setup. The downpipe's available for the stock turbo setup can also be used on aftermarket turbos as long as they are not rotated.

The downpipe helps reduce spool time by allowing the gases pushing the turbines to move quickly out of the exhaust. This reduction in restriction greatly enhances the performance and sound of the subaru wrx and sti.

Some manufacturers of downpipes are megan, perrin, kartboy, tein, and more. Ebay knock off downpipes are fine too, but realize they aren't as strong as per say perrin. I chose to use perrin because of the off road strength and reliability that comes with a quality name.

Purchasing a down pipe alone sometimes is not enough, and a mid pipe is needed. The mid pipe connects the short down pipe with the catalytic converter. If you plan on going offroad, this is the pipe that will take abuse. It runs the length of the car and is also the car's lowest point. Make sure you choose good quality when purchasing the mid pipe if you plan to go offroad!

WRX BOV Blow Off Valve

2009-02-03T15:45:00.000-05:00

There are three types of blow off valve systems you can choose for your impreza.

1. 100% Atmospheric Blow Off Valve

2. Adjustable Recirculatory-Atmospheric Blow Off Valve (Atmostpheric & Return)

3. Recirculatory Blow Off Valve (OEM)

100% Atmospheric Blow Off Valve

The 100% atmospheric blow off valve is safe to use if you have TBE, intake, and no cats. You might also want to consider purchasing a wideband air-fuel ratio gauge like AEM UEGO or LC-1 and have it installed into your exhaust (length from turbo according to directions of wideband, aem uego wants at least 36" to prevent burning of sensor)

The atmostpheric blow off valve can do damage to your car if you aren't properly modified for it. They are bad for stock cars because the lack of air entering the intake tract is less than expected, so the car runs rich in between gears and can cause afterfire. Afterfire is when unburnt fuel in the exhaust system is exploded post-turbo due to heat generated from the turbo. Afterfire flames can shoot out from your exhaust as far as three feet with only a BOV, TBE, intake, and no cats. This rich condition that causes flames also helps keep your spool, due to extra gases in the exhaust tract creating pressure on the blades during the rich period.

Atmospheric blow off valves also help reduce turbo lag and spool time. There is no air being "forced" into the natural flow of your intake, which slows down the turbo spool. The incomming air from the recirculatory blow off valve acts like an air brake on the fins of the turbo intake. By removing this air, and creating the rich condition between shifts, this removes restriction of the intake and increases the force pushing the exhaust part of the turbo which in theory keeps the spool spinning. The spool time is actually noticeable if you have installed a turbo inlet, maf hose, tbe, up-pipe, and removed cats. Up-pipe is optional, but is usually included when you remove all the cats. (Cat in the up pipe)

Adjustable Recirculatory-Atmospheric Blow Off Valve

The adjustable recirculatory-atmostpheric blow off valve is a great choice if your car is stock because it allows an adjustable amount of air to enter the turbo inlet. This prevents the car from running at such extreme rich conditions as some vehicles will experience when using the 100% atmospheric blow off valve. If the 100% atmospheric BOV is causing your car to stall, or making it shoot too much fire, you might want to consider the adjustable recirculatory-atmospheric blow off valve.

The adjustable factor of this part allows you to tune the bov air amounts you want. You basically have to choices, LOUD, or quiet. Loud being vented to atmosphere, and quiet vented back into the turbo inlet. If you want to decresase spool time, and not have the annoying woosh of atmospheric blow off valves, you should consider the adjsutable recirculatory-atmospheric blow off valves.

Recirculatory Blow Off Valve (OEM)

The recirculatory blow off valve is not only bad for your car, but it reduces fuel economy and places additonal stress on your turbo system that is not needed. Under extreme conditions and use, it can freeze and create enough back pressure to blow the intake manifold clean off the block. If your blow off valve fails and you notice your boost not going away, turn off the vehicle asap. This will let the boost vent naturally out through the intake rather than forcing it out in form of explosion.

There are recirculatory blow off valves that are aftermarket, but I personally don't see any use for these at all. You need to get rid of the 100% recirculatory blow off valve and at minimum buy a hybrid if you have any plans at all of driving your impreza hard. I've seen too many stock BOV's destroy engines, don't let it happen to yours!